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We All Scream
5.11 YDS 6c+ French 23 Ewbanks VIII- UIAA 23 ZA E4 5c British PG13
Avg: 2 from 2
votes
Early Access
Routes in Entrance Pinnacle Sector
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Diabeetus T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Good Humor Man T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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I Scream T 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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Michoacan Bar T 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c PG13 |
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Soft-Serve Cone T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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We All Scream T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c PG13 |
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You Scream T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
| Type: | Trad, 40 ft (12 m) |
| GPS: | 35.77096, -106.37541 |
| FA: | Logan Peterson w/ Kevin Freitas 6/13/20 |
| Page Views: | 641 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Logan Peterson on Jun 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Jason Halladay, Mike Hoskins, Anna Brown |
Description
Physical and a bit heady in places. Definitely harder on lead.
Same start as You Scream, but aim for the crack on the right side of the hanging buttress. The pale rock at the base of this wall is quite soft, so use the crack. Dump both big cams before you get to the roof, placing the second high and deep. Delicate face climbing up a blunt arete takes you to the roof. Plug some solid gear to protect the roof, and get ready to jam/pull hard. The final move, which puts the anchors at chest level, should not be missed. Anchors were installed a bit low to ensure solid bolt placements.
PG-13 rating to get people's attention, but there are options for solid pro throughout...if you manage to place it. Leading this route might not be a good choice if you're new to trad or pushing your grade.
Please use your own draws to toprope.
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