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Run-Don't-Walk Couloir
5.4 YDS 4a French 12 Ewbanks IV UIAA 10 ZA VD 3c British WI4
Avg: 3.3 from 3
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Routes in Mt Owen
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Crescent Arête, Crescent Arête Direct T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b Mod. Snow |
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East Ridge T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b Easy Snow |
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Intrepidity Arete T 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Jenni’s Way T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Koven Route T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c Easy Snow |
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North Ridge T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a Mod. Snow |
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North Ridge Directissima T 5.10 6b 20 VII- 19 E2 5b PG13 |
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Northeast Snowfields T 5.6 4c 14 V 12 S 4b AI2-3 Steep Snow |
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Run-Don't-Walk Couloir T 5.4 4a 12 IV 10 VD 3c WI4 |
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Serendipity Arete T 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b C1 |
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| Type: | Trad, Ice, Alpine, Grade IV |
| FA: | Stephen Arsenault, John Bouchard - July 6, 1972 |
| Page Views: | 1,656 total · 35/month |
| Shared By: | Vic Zeilman on Jun 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
The Run-Don’t-Walk Couloir is a complex alpine endeavor and one of the major ice climbing objectives of the range. It helps to have some familiarity with the Tetons in general and routes up Mt Owen specifically. This narrow couloir between the Crescent Arete and North Ridge is a striking line that catches the eye of any climber that has examined the northeast face of Mt Owen from the valley floor.
In the 1973 American Alpine Journal, Stephen Arsenault writes regarding the first ascent of the Run-Don’t-Walk Couloir, “Named from a distance several years ago, this couloir... has a particularly evil appearance, marked by rock scars and running water when it is not filled with ice." When Stephen and his climbing partner John Bouchard completed the first ascent in early July, 1972, they encountered a fifteen foot gap in the initial steep ice bulge that required a difficult pitch of A3 to bypass. The AAJ article notes, “For optimum conditions this route should be done earlier in the season when the ice would still be intact.”
Generally speaking, climbers should wait for an ideal melt-freeze cycle that provides continuous snow and ice throughout the route, and should start very early on a colder day to ensure that everything is locked up as much as possible. There’s a lot of potential for overhead hazard funneling into this feature. Falling rock and ice should be anticipated. With that being said, there are a number of relatively sheltered belay nooks throughout the route, including the two WI4 crux pitches.
The Ortenburger-Jackson guide notes, “The best time to find good ice conditions seems to be in the late spring or very early summer when cold temperatures permit the ice sections to form but after the spring avalanche cycle.”
The following description is from conditions found on June 9, 2020:
Phase 1: Getting to the climb
The major crux of the approach is nailing the Cascade Creek crossing in the dark (and you probably want it to still be dark at this point). It is well worth the time to scout an adequate crossing during daylight hours and ensure this portion of the initial approach is known.
There are two options to get to the base of the RDW: The first is to approach via the lower portion of the Northeast Snowfields route, eventually veering west, traversing up and right to reach the base of the couloir. This was the path of the first ascent, and is detailed and pictured in the Ortenburger-Jackon guide.
The second option is to locate a fallen log crossing that is nearly in line with the toe of the North Ridge on Owen when viewed from the Cascade Canyon trail (it’s literally 50-100’ off the main trail). Cross Cascade Creek, wander through some braided tributaries of the creek, then move immediately up and right to locate a tongue of snow leading to a prominent couloir (up and left) that ascends directly to the base of the RDW, Crescent Arete, and North Ridge starts. This couloir is on the west (right) side of a prominent ridge that ends at McCain’s Pillar (a 150’ pinnacle that lies on the lower extension of the Crescent Arete). In early season, the McCain's Pillar Couloir is a fast, direct approach which is entirely on snow. From the upper couloir, the entrance to the RDW is clearly visible.
Phase 2: Run. Don’t walk.
In early June, 2020, a short step of ice-covered rock guarded the entrance to the couloir. Rope up, and start climbing. Simul-climb for several hundred feet (600?) through the short rock step to reach steep snow and neve with ample rock pro along the walls of the couloir. Punch it and belay at the base of the first steep ice pitch (a nice sheltered nook).
P2. Climb the steep curtain of ice, which likely varies in difficulty depending on conditions any given year (WI4ish). Run the rope to the base of the next steep ice step (55-60m).
P3. Climb the initial ice bulge (WI4ish) to a flat stance then launch into the next steep ice step (slightly easier but more spongy and sun affected in early June, 2020). The most sheltered belay nook above made this pitch approximately 70-75m.
P4. This is another long simul-climbing pitch on steep snow and neve. Take it several hundred feet (another 600?) to the top of the couloir. You're done with the Run-Don't-Walk.
Phase 3: Topping out and descending
The top of the Run-Don’t-Walk Couloir puts one at a crossroads for going to the summit of Mt Owen (there’s still a bunch of terrain to cover to get to the top). Directly above the couloir sits the remainder of the North Ridge, including the most difficult climbing on the Great Yellow Tower. This option will add significant complications, including rock climbing up to 5.9 in likely alpine conditions. Although this would be the most impressive way to finish, it is far more difficult than other alternatives.
Other options include:
1) The traditional Northeast Snowfields finish (move down and left from the top of the RDW then climb direct to the top).
2) Move down and left, then climb up and left, across the NE Snowfields, to reach the East Ridge or the Koven finish (probably the most popular option).
3) Move down and left, then traverse hard left, contouring the vast NE Snowfield to reach the notch at the top of the Koven Couloir (this is the fastest way to descend off the mountain without reaching the true summit). The top of the RDW is basically at the same elevation as the Koven Couloir.
A good option for going to the summit is to finish on the Koven (it’s important to be familiar with this route as well). The RDW linked with the Koven finish keeps the overall rating of the climb at (IV WI4 5.4). Once on the summit of Owen, reverse course and down-climb the Koven into Glacier Gulch. Hike out to the Lupine Meadows trailhead (either hitch a ride back to your car or arrange a shuttle).
In the 1973 American Alpine Journal, Stephen Arsenault writes regarding the first ascent of the Run-Don’t-Walk Couloir, “Named from a distance several years ago, this couloir... has a particularly evil appearance, marked by rock scars and running water when it is not filled with ice." When Stephen and his climbing partner John Bouchard completed the first ascent in early July, 1972, they encountered a fifteen foot gap in the initial steep ice bulge that required a difficult pitch of A3 to bypass. The AAJ article notes, “For optimum conditions this route should be done earlier in the season when the ice would still be intact.”
Generally speaking, climbers should wait for an ideal melt-freeze cycle that provides continuous snow and ice throughout the route, and should start very early on a colder day to ensure that everything is locked up as much as possible. There’s a lot of potential for overhead hazard funneling into this feature. Falling rock and ice should be anticipated. With that being said, there are a number of relatively sheltered belay nooks throughout the route, including the two WI4 crux pitches.
The Ortenburger-Jackson guide notes, “The best time to find good ice conditions seems to be in the late spring or very early summer when cold temperatures permit the ice sections to form but after the spring avalanche cycle.”
The following description is from conditions found on June 9, 2020:
Phase 1: Getting to the climb
The major crux of the approach is nailing the Cascade Creek crossing in the dark (and you probably want it to still be dark at this point). It is well worth the time to scout an adequate crossing during daylight hours and ensure this portion of the initial approach is known.
There are two options to get to the base of the RDW: The first is to approach via the lower portion of the Northeast Snowfields route, eventually veering west, traversing up and right to reach the base of the couloir. This was the path of the first ascent, and is detailed and pictured in the Ortenburger-Jackon guide.
The second option is to locate a fallen log crossing that is nearly in line with the toe of the North Ridge on Owen when viewed from the Cascade Canyon trail (it’s literally 50-100’ off the main trail). Cross Cascade Creek, wander through some braided tributaries of the creek, then move immediately up and right to locate a tongue of snow leading to a prominent couloir (up and left) that ascends directly to the base of the RDW, Crescent Arete, and North Ridge starts. This couloir is on the west (right) side of a prominent ridge that ends at McCain’s Pillar (a 150’ pinnacle that lies on the lower extension of the Crescent Arete). In early season, the McCain's Pillar Couloir is a fast, direct approach which is entirely on snow. From the upper couloir, the entrance to the RDW is clearly visible.
Phase 2: Run. Don’t walk.
In early June, 2020, a short step of ice-covered rock guarded the entrance to the couloir. Rope up, and start climbing. Simul-climb for several hundred feet (600?) through the short rock step to reach steep snow and neve with ample rock pro along the walls of the couloir. Punch it and belay at the base of the first steep ice pitch (a nice sheltered nook).
P2. Climb the steep curtain of ice, which likely varies in difficulty depending on conditions any given year (WI4ish). Run the rope to the base of the next steep ice step (55-60m).
P3. Climb the initial ice bulge (WI4ish) to a flat stance then launch into the next steep ice step (slightly easier but more spongy and sun affected in early June, 2020). The most sheltered belay nook above made this pitch approximately 70-75m.
P4. This is another long simul-climbing pitch on steep snow and neve. Take it several hundred feet (another 600?) to the top of the couloir. You're done with the Run-Don't-Walk.
Phase 3: Topping out and descending
The top of the Run-Don’t-Walk Couloir puts one at a crossroads for going to the summit of Mt Owen (there’s still a bunch of terrain to cover to get to the top). Directly above the couloir sits the remainder of the North Ridge, including the most difficult climbing on the Great Yellow Tower. This option will add significant complications, including rock climbing up to 5.9 in likely alpine conditions. Although this would be the most impressive way to finish, it is far more difficult than other alternatives.
Other options include:
1) The traditional Northeast Snowfields finish (move down and left from the top of the RDW then climb direct to the top).
2) Move down and left, then climb up and left, across the NE Snowfields, to reach the East Ridge or the Koven finish (probably the most popular option).
3) Move down and left, then traverse hard left, contouring the vast NE Snowfield to reach the notch at the top of the Koven Couloir (this is the fastest way to descend off the mountain without reaching the true summit). The top of the RDW is basically at the same elevation as the Koven Couloir.
A good option for going to the summit is to finish on the Koven (it’s important to be familiar with this route as well). The RDW linked with the Koven finish keeps the overall rating of the climb at (IV WI4 5.4). Once on the summit of Owen, reverse course and down-climb the Koven into Glacier Gulch. Hike out to the Lupine Meadows trailhead (either hitch a ride back to your car or arrange a shuttle).
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