Sneaky Pete

Another great, modern addition to Marble Canyon climbing by Mike Mason and Crystal Austin. Sneaky Pete follows featured limestone slabs and face climbing up the Lower Wall - culminating with a bolted chimney. Super fun climbing on a variety of interesting limestone features and holds. This route will require you to use a quiver of climbing techniques.

Note: although this route is all modern bolts in modern style and very safe, it is not a sport climb. Limestone is well known (and loved) for being loose in places, and long routes have sections with mandatory climbing between well-spaced bolts.  

Pitches:

1. 5.8, 8 bolts, 36m. Follow bolts up a slab trending slightly leftward then straight up to a 2 bolt anchor with chains on a small ledge with a small shrub.
2. Low 5th, 3 bolts, 22m. Scramble straight up lower angle slabs to a 2 bolt anchor with chains on a vertical wall.
3. 5.9, 8 bolts, 27m. Climb straight up just right of the belay. Pull a move to get established on the upper small slab. Climb highly featured orange conglomerate rightward up a slabby ramp feature to a 2 bolt anchor with chains on a small rock ledge.
4. 5.10d, 25m, 11 bolts. Climb straight up slightly right then arcing back left following a line of subtle limestone dimples, slopey edges, sidepulls, and pinches. This pitch is the technical crux and will require a quiver of climbing trickery. Finish on a small slopey ledge with 2 bolts and chains (slightly hanging belay). 
5. 5.10c, 8 bolts, 27m. Continue upward off the belay following more subtle holds to a vertical wall. Avoid the urge to traverse left too soon. Undercling the vertical wall to establish good feet and traverse left then straight up. Eases 1/2 way up the pitch into low 5th slab scrambling to a 2 bolt anchor with chains on a big square ledge. 
6. 5.6, 4 bolts, 10m. Climb straight up to the right of the belay anchor to another big ledge with a 2 bolt anchor only.
7. 5.9, 8 bolts, 22m. Scramble up a small slab right of the anchor until you can reach up and clip the first bolt. Ascend to the right of the bolts on fun face climbing features. Low angle slabs at the top lead to a 2 bolt anchor with chains on a ledge at the base of a big chimney.
8. 5.8, 5 bolts, 32m. Leave your pack at the belay if you are rappelling the route otherwise prepare to hang it between your legs. Scramble up easy terrain to the base of the chimney. Get your back into it and jam a knee against the rock. Chicken wings and a side of fries will get you up this thing. Thank the climbing gods for the bolts and a chockstone midway up to rest. Scramble the top to a 2 bolt anchor with chains on a small wall beside a tree. 

Rappel the route with a 70m rope.
Follow the chains, skippng the bare 2 bolt anchor on pitch 6.

Note: the route was built to be rappelled with a 60m rope, but several pitches are rope stretchers and I do not recommend it. If you rappel pitch 8 with a 60m rope, you will have to scramble down some 4th class terrain to the anchor at the top of pitch 7.

You can also hike off (climbers left) from the massive tree terrace at the top of the route. The hike off is complex 4th and low 5th class terrain. I only recommend it if you know the route. I flagged 'a' route a few years ago but the markers might have long ago drifted away in the wind.

Park in a gravel pullout on the lake side of the hwy. 1.4km west of the Marble Canyon Provincial Park campsite. Locate an obvious trail across the hwy. behind a speed limit sign heading up to the Lower Wall. As the trail approaches the lower wall take a left turn across a small gravel gully and walk approximately 300m along the base of the wall. Just before the start of the route, you will pass a short vertical wall with several bolted sport climbs. The route starts just past this wall in a slabby area. If you drop down a large gully, you've gone too far. 

12 Draws and 60/70m rope. All bolted anchors.