Type: Trad, 95 ft (29 m)
FA: TBD
Page Views: 382 total · 16/month
Shared By: Kelty Godby on Jun 7, 2020
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route


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Description

X: currently there is no fixed line equipped to get you to the belay stance at the base of this climb. An unroped fall getting to the base of this climb would be your last (150ft of exposure). Rope up, walk next to the wall (left of the bushes). Plug a #3 and #4 in the splitter horizontal crack on a sloping ledge directly below the bolt line to anchor your belayer.

This route is an open project. Go send it! Also, add another bolt, after bolt 3 (current pro is marginal; R)

5.10 climbing for the first three bolts. At the current, 4th bolt, the climbing gets really hard, delicate feet, and thin crimps get you to a hard leftward traverse through two more bolts. Finish through the “Mad Max” roof to the same anchor.
The sport portion of the route should be equipped with perma draws.
The lower portion of the route needs to be cleaned, specifically, between bolts 3 and 4.
This was bolted in hopes of finding an easier way to access the “mad max” roof.

There is potential for other variations leading straight up off bolts 3, 4, and 5 on this route.

Location

From the base of “Mad Max,” identify a bolt line that traverses into the roof from the hard right. Rope up and walk left of the bushes near the wall, until directly below the bolt line. 

Protection

6 bolts (needs to be equipped with a 7th bolt between #s 3-4). Pro: doubles from .2-.75. Single 1 and 2); red-point rack would require significantly less gear.
#3 & #4 to anchor your belayer.

Photos

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