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Plastic Fantastic (submitted as Small Dose)

5.12- R, Trad, TR, 80 ft (24 m),  Avg: 1.7 from 3 votes
FA: Eli Helmuth
Colorado > Boulder > Boulder Canyon > Nip & Tuck
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Description

Start 12 feet right of Lethal Dose, using large underclings, sidepulls and juggy thuggy moves past a small cam in an obvious slot to reach the horizontal slopers. More gear on the slopey traverse right gets you to a good rest below the first of two bolts. The crux moving left from the first bolt is sharp and reachy, followed by some nice movements along this dull arete past the second bolt. Easier climbing leads to a two bolt anchor which also works for the adjacent Lethal Dose. This testpiece can also be easily top roped after leading the classic Lethal Dose.

Location

Near the far west side of the Nip crag, this route is identifiable by two bolts high off the ground.

Protection

A standard rack with small cams for before the first bolt.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Mike Arnold taking a lap on Plastic Fantastic. The yellow C4 at the bottom is the first piece of pro, about 12' off the ground. The quickdraw by his head is the first bolt, and the rope is clipped into the second bolt.
[Hide Photo] Mike Arnold taking a lap on Plastic Fantastic. The yellow C4 at the bottom is the first piece of pro, about 12' off the ground. The quickdraw by his head is the first bolt, and the rope is clipped…