Type: Trad, 140 ft (42 m), 2 pitches
FA: Chris Hirsch, Shankar Zamora, Matt Scherer; ground-up June 2020
Page Views: 213 total · 28/month
Shared By: Chris Hirsch on Jun 2, 2020
Admins: Peter Gram, Greg Parker, Mike Madsen, Mark Rafferty

You & This Route


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Description

This all-gear route climbs the steep North side of Eyetooth. For the approach pitch, beginning from the North, climb up a short hand crack located in between Tusk and Eyetooth. Then follow ledges up left into a gully/chimney filled with precarious boulders. Belay at a decent perch below the route. For the real climbing; take easy climbing up wide cracks and chimney to the right of the route's runnel feature above. Sling and mantel large horn then carefully lean over to place gear and get established in the steep crack. Follow crack all the way to the top through slopey liebacking, off balance crystal pinching, hard to place gear, a small runout, and a wicked pump. Mantel over the lip and you're at the bolted anchor of the original route.

Location

Climbs the obvious fat wrinkle on the NNE aspect of the formation. 40m rappel down the South side.

Protection

Single rack; micro - large, nuts/rps, double length sling. (larger cam is optional for down low, biggest cam placed for the steep section was a .75)
Bolted anchor

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