California Ice

California Ice is the plum of the East Rosebud and a full day real deal alpine adventure classic.

Locate the drainage and approach via an initial WI 2 short step. Continue up the drainage with easy ice ramps and some WI 1 and 2 difficulties. Expect a 3 to 4 hour approach from the car park, so an early (very early) start is more than prudent.

The meat of the climb is 2 to 3 long, steep pitches up a brilliant and imposing headwall of ice.
The route can be continued to the top of the plateau but most folks will call ‘er good after the steep pitches.

Descent by hitting a tree rappel to climber’s right at the top of the headwall. Continue down with another rappel or a downclimb depending on snowpack and avy hazard. Some use the gully climber’s right of the route to complete the descent back to more level ground.

Take care with avalanche hazard and consider the potential for inclement weather.

Most will find this ascent a big day out in the mountains. A full day, 12 hours or better car-to-car. Be prepared for a long day and take care.

Approach via the East Rosebud trail at the carpark past the campground at the trailhead.

On the trail, go past the end of the lake for about a mile. Note the trail blasted out of the side of the rock. After a short bit, the climb should come into view. A traverse up towards the route will intersect the creek drainage or continue a mile or more on the trail to intersect the creek bed at a lower elevation. Follow the drainage up to the base of the route.

Expect a 3 or 4 hour approach with around 1500 feet of elevation gain.

Ice screws and cord/sling for v-threads/anchors.