The Rift

This route appears in a massive cleft high on the northeast face of 13,256' peak S4. It can form in the spring after several weeks of sunny weather and clear nights, and it disappears as soon as the feed above dries up.

P1. Sprint to a stance below the huge rock bulge or headwall and belay your partners up out of the rockfall zone. Or, belay above the steep bit around 210 feet.

P2. Climb the headwall (easiest on right) and continue up rambling, sun-affected ice for another 50+ feet.

Two double-rope rappels on v-threads and/or (your own) fixed gear should get you back to the base, with an optional third rappel to skip some steep snow/AI2 downclimbing and get you out of the rockfall zone quicker.

Or, if the snow is in good condition, you can grunt up 800 feet to the summit of S4 and descend the easy south gully, then hike out the scenic basin east to lower Blue Lakes to pick up the trail.

From Ridgway, take CO 62 west 4 miles, then turn left onto CR 7 (signed for Dallas Creek), and follow this road south to its end at the Blue Lakes Trailhead. The ice can be seen from the trailhead, but conditions may be hard to gauge at that distance.

Follow the Blue Lakes Trail 1.75 miles. Decent campsites exist along the meadow just beyond the stream crossing. From the meadow, the upper ice should be visible in the obvious cleft in the NE face. Leave the trail, and bust straight up the avalanche track to the south, towards the ice.

After 1300 feet of elevation gain, you will reach a sort of knoll (38.0100, -107.8273). There are a few reasonable campsites along this short ridge.

Ascend the wide apron to a gully on the right which is hidden from view. Turn into this gully and waste no time climbing through to the base of the ice, 650 feet above the knoll at approximately 12,300'. It may be difficult to protect this belay from falling ice.

This is a spring climb; aim for mid to late May. Rockfall is a major concern and increases as the temperatures rise or fall. Start in the dark and climb on a cold, cloudy day. Avoid if there is any avalanche hazard.

Snowshoes should not be required.

Short screws, two ropes, and a v-thread kit. An alpine rack and/or pitons may be useful.