Sur Clasica

The classic line up el Pajaro. Very varied, fun and adventurous climb that feels hard for its grade. Bring a double rack, aliens work great in la Pedriza, double 60m rope recommended so that you can rappel off if you bail. And be ready to run out a 5.8 run out slab without any pro for a good 30 feet. Also while the grade is V+, it feels hard and sustained for this grade. Would only recommend climbing if you feel very comfortable climbing 5.10 on trad. Some bolted anchors, but also a tree and slinged chickenheads.

Pitch 1 V+/5.9: Long fun pitch with a cruxy start. Fairly close to the ground you'll have to the "el paso del jabonzcillo" which translates to something like the soapy move. Its a tricky traverse move with small holds and a slippery foothold. You can place some pro by climbing higher on the right and placing an alien on a small horizontal crack, then down-climb and do the move. While officially this is V+/5.9 most people agree that this move is in the 6a/5.10 territory. After this you proceed along two parallel wide cracks/chimneys with smear feet. After all this you are rewarded with a bolted anchor. Great pitch.

Pitches 2 & 3 V+/5.9: Continue along a similar crack system to a a very vertical feature called El escudo (the shield). Here you traverse right (aliens work great) to a ledge with a bolted anchor. People split this in two shorter pitches to prevent rope drag.

Pitch 4 V/5.8: The dreaded run-out slab. Right out of the anchor you'll have to climb a smooth slab without any pro for a good 30ft. The good news is that it gets easier the more you climb. Still, the leader does not fall is a good mantra to follow here. Eventually you'll be able o sling a solid chickenhead. From here it gets pretty easygoing. For the anchor sling a tree on a big cavernous ledge.

Pitch 5 V/5.8: Mostly a jug ladder on some humongous chiken-heads that are also useful for pro. Of note is weird bouldery mantle style move right by the anchor where you sling a horn for pro. The move is actually not hard but feels exposed and the sling isn't that good. This is the only 5.8 move. Everything else is 5.7 or 5.6

Pitch 6 & 7 - IV/5.7: Very easy and enjoyable jug ladder with plenty of chikenheads for pro. I cant remember what length these have but you may be able to combine them in one pitch if you have a 70m rope. If not find two solid chikenheads to sling for an intermediate anchor. There is a bolted anchor at the pre-summit

Pitch 8 - IV/5.7: You are in the pre-summit, right on the "neck" of the giant bird that gives its name to the tower. To reach the true summit you have one short pitch with no possible pro (though there has been at times a bolt of there). On the first ascent the team stood on each others shoulders to make it to the top. With modern climbing shoes its an easy climb and while still unnerving a fall shouldn't be a big deal. Best if you don't fall though

Descent: There is a bolted anchor with rap rings on the north side of the summit. One rope length takes you to a cavernous hall. From here you descend on foot through a canal to the north. Some sections are tricky to down-climb, especially in winter where frost builds up in this north facing alleyway that never sees the light of the sun