Type: Trad, 120 ft (36 m)
FA: Brian Rajdl 1999
Page Views: 233 total · 15/month
Shared By: Brian Rajdl on May 22, 2020
Admins: John Miller, P P, Brandon Snyder

You & This Route


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Description

Straight up the dirty slab to the first roof, pull to the easy slab above.  Angle left up this slab to the left corner under the orange second roof.  Reach out and ascend the bomber flake up to the mantle.  A "thank god" ledge gives you time to sort out the small nuts needed to protect the crux (with bomber placements at your heals) which is the move out right around the 3rd roof.  Get established on the slab above and cruise to the treeded ledge.  At this point you need to choose where to stop.  This is the natural end to the climb and a bomber white pine anchor, but one rope will not get you down, and the pull from the tree is really tough and barely doable  (will be replacing webbing and rap rings.)  Or, you can continue up  the buttress on an easy featured slab and anchor on the white pine about 40' higher.  The rope will pull much easier from this tree.  There is no 4th class approach from either side of the buttress to toprope this route or walk down.  Sometimes has Perrigrine falcons nearby, so avoid if nesting perigrines are giving you the flyby.

Location

This route is visible from the road, you can see the orange second roof directly up from the curvey road sign.  You can park there and walk straight up to the climb, navigating a small swamp.  Head up through the boulder field.  This climb is located between Overkill Roof area and JC superstar area.     

Protection

standard rack, need small nuts/ large micros.

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