Type: Sport, 80 ft (24 m)
FA: Clint Cummins and Bruce Hildenbrand December 22, 2003
Page Views: 277 total · 19/month
Shared By: Bruce Hildenbrand on May 21, 2020
Admins: andy patterson, Aron Quiter, Bruce Hildenbrand, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer suchoski, Vicki Schwantes, Justin Johnsen

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Access Issue: Seasonal Raptor Closures Details

Description

This route tackles the steep east face of Long's Folly facing the High Peaks Trail.  Four bolts protect the juggy climbing on knobs, edges and a few well-placed pockets.  Two more bolts at the halfway rappel anchor are encountered before reaching the summit(be sure to look for California Condors!)

The route was put up on the day of a magnitude 6.5 earthquake on the San Andreas fault which killed two people in Paso Robles.  Pinnacles National Monument/Park sits directly on top of the fault and as Clint was drilling the second bolt at 11:15am the whole pinnacle started swaying back and forth.  As is his nature, Clint hung tough and got the bolt drilled and placed.

This is one of two routes, the other being Andy's Sunset, which were put up in memory of long-time Pinnacles ranger, Andy Artz, who was a great friend to the climbing community and the Park as well.  Andy used to carry a stuffed bear, Abner, clipped to his pack as he roamed the Park.  RIP, Andy!

Location

The climb starts as per the Regular Route  below an obvious ramp on it right side.  Spot four bolts on the wall above.  Head left on easier terrain to join the Regular Route after the fourth bolt.

Protection

6 bolts to a 2 bolt anchor with chains.

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