Type: Trad, 700 ft (212 m), 6 pitches, Grade V
GPS: 40.88003, -3.60839
FA: Daniel Jiménez, Fernando Negro, Pedro Tena y Manolín, 1977.
Page Views: 830 total · 12/month
Shared By: Guillermo Valverde on May 21, 2020
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

You & This Route


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Description Suggest change

The longest route in Pico de la Miel following the oblivious central pillar

Pitch 1 - IV/5.6: Climb the slab along the left corner to have something to hold on to, then traverse right to go towards the crack system using a bolt, keep going until you get to the anchors. You can go directly to the crack system via a hard bolted slab that is allegedly 6b but is poorly bolted and has a nasty potential fall. Do not recommend it.

Pitch 2 - IV+/5.7: Continue along the slabby crack system with good pro.

Pitch 3 - V/5.8: Things get spicy here as you move into pure slab climbing territory, thankfully there are a couple of bolts to ease the journey. Pitch ends right at the bottom of the vertical wall with a bronze plaque

Pitch 4 - V/5.8: The classic pitch. Climb up the exposed vertical wall along cracks and chikenheads. Good pro and a number of bolts to boot. There are many variations all of which go at around the same grade, some make exclusive use of the crack others follow the numerous handholds. End towards the left of the pillar on a ledge.

Pitch 5 - V/5.8: Short intermediate pitch with one tricky move to climb to a ledge. Keep going until the anchors at the bottom of a short but cool looking vertical crack

Pitch 6 - V+/5.9: Last but not least, a short hand-crack with what are probably the hardest moves of the route. No more bolted anchors after this so built one where you feel comfortable roping-off and walking to the summit.

Descent: Walk off from geodesic pole at summit

Location Suggest change

Route goes along the obvious central pillar

Protection Suggest change

Full rack with doubles for extra safety, many bolts on unprotectable sections, and even some on protectable parts too

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