Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

Via Ezequiel

5.7, Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV,  Avg: 3.5 from 4 votes
FA: Ezequiel Conde y J.Domingo in1969
International > Europe > Spain > Madrid > Madrid - Sierra… > Pico de la Miel
Warning Access Issue: Raptor Closures DetailsDrop down

Description

Pitch 1 - IV-/5.5: Short and easy routine pitch that goes diagonally up leftwards along a buttress then traverses left to the anchor . You can link pitches 1 and two but it will result in some rope drag because of this traverse

Pitch 2 - IV/5.6: Continue traversing left and hop over a boulder. From here climb up an aesthetic quarz vein with great pockets and holds

Pitch 3 - IV+/5.7: The main event, go up an easy but unprotected slab towards the cave above. Enter this cave and climb up in in true 3d style with holds all around you. Placing pro is not so straightforwards but there is a piton hidden somewhere in there. Emerge from the cave on to a great belay ledge. Try not to leave the cave early as this will create more rope drag

Pitch 3 variation (via Emilio) V+/5.9: While the cave is super fun you can also climb through the short crack to the right. This is a fun pitch with nice exposure. There are plenty of holds on the sides of the crack on pro is east. Good intro to grade V climbs in la Cabrera

Pitch 4 - IV+/5.7: While the cave is the most unusual pitch, this one might be the most classic. Go up to the left of the anchors to follow a system of cracks and chicken heads. Its steep and exposed but very doable.

Pitch 5 - IV/5.6: Mostly 5.5 or easier terrain. Some people free solo this. Scramble upwards finding the line of least resistance. The 5.6 moves are not exposed. If you are roped in you will have to build an anchor at some point as there are no more bolted anchors.  

Once un-roped continue to the summit with the geodesic pole and descent along one of the trails when ready

Location

Approach along one of eastern trails going up Pico de la Miel. This climb starts higher up that others so you will hike past some routes before getting to the start

Protection

Single rack to #3 will work for most, double up on mediums for extra safety

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Do not leave the cave from here. Keep climbing in the cave until you see light haha
[Hide Photo] Do not leave the cave from here. Keep climbing in the cave until you see light haha
Start of the first pitch
[Hide Photo] Start of the first pitch
Topo with Emilio variation on pitch 3
[Hide Photo] Topo with Emilio variation on pitch 3
View from P3
[Hide Photo] View from P3
Detailed topo of via Ezequiel
[Hide Photo] Detailed topo of via Ezequiel

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Max Brand
Fort Collins, CO
 
[Hide Comment] The route starts at a left-moving flake. P5 was a bit confusing, after about 50 feet of scrambling, I was still very far from the top and it looked like there were many other routes to go up, but none of them looked easier than 5.7. I ended up climbing a 10-foot wider crack over to the right and topping out from there. After that, you can find the final set of chains and walk around to the right of the rock on some slab until you reach the concrete pole at the peak. The walk-off was confusing and we ended up having to rap off a sling in a steep valley-like area. I would recommend rapping the whole route from where you finished. Oct 3, 2022