Type: Trad, 500 ft (152 m), 5 pitches, Grade IV
GPS: 40.88003, -3.60839
FA: Ezequiel Conde y J.Domingo in1969
Page Views: 691 total · 10/month
Shared By: Guillermo Valverde on May 21, 2020
Admins: Jason Halladay, David Riley

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Description Suggest change

Pitch 1 - IV-/5.5: Short and easy routine pitch that goes diagonally up leftwards along a buttress then traverses left to the anchor . You can link pitches 1 and two but it will result in some rope drag because of this traverse

Pitch 2 - IV/5.6: Continue traversing left and hop over a boulder. From here climb up an aesthetic quarz vein with great pockets and holds

Pitch 3 - IV+/5.7: The main event, go up an easy but unprotected slab towards the cave above. Enter this cave and climb up in in true 3d style with holds all around you. Placing pro is not so straightforwards but there is a piton hidden somewhere in there. Emerge from the cave on to a great belay ledge. Try not to leave the cave early as this will create more rope drag

Pitch 3 variation (via Emilio) V+/5.9: While the cave is super fun you can also climb through the short crack to the right. This is a fun pitch with nice exposure. There are plenty of holds on the sides of the crack on pro is east. Good intro to grade V climbs in la Cabrera

Pitch 4 - IV+/5.7: While the cave is the most unusual pitch, this one might be the most classic. Go up to the left of the anchors to follow a system of cracks and chicken heads. Its steep and exposed but very doable.

Pitch 5 - IV/5.6: Mostly 5.5 or easier terrain. Some people free solo this. Scramble upwards finding the line of least resistance. The 5.6 moves are not exposed. If you are roped in you will have to build an anchor at some point as there are no more bolted anchors.  

Once un-roped continue to the summit with the geodesic pole and descent along one of the trails when ready

Location Suggest change

Approach along one of eastern trails going up Pico de la Miel. This climb starts higher up that others so you will hike past some routes before getting to the start

Protection Suggest change

Single rack to #3 will work for most, double up on mediums for extra safety

Photos

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