Type: Sport, 10 pitches
FA: unknown
Page Views: 253 total · 10/month
Shared By: Vivek Subramanian on May 20, 2020
Admins: Dan Flynn, Mark P.

You & This Route


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Description

Pitch 1: 5b Short wall, corner... probably the hardest pitch of the climb since the rock has become quite slick.

Pitch 2: 5b Slab and large flake

Pitch 3: 3a Traverse to the left along a ledge which becomes wider, climb a little slab to the left. Belay on the right.

Pitch 4:  4b Steep wall then a pleasant slab.

Pitch 5: 4a Magnificent slab pitch, belay at the large stance.

Pitch 6: 4a Another pleasant slab. Belay just below a broad ledge with trees

Pitch 7: 3a Traverse along the ledge to the left for a few metres, then a short wall, then leftwards up easy angled slabs. Tree belay.

To get to pitch 8, follow easy ground to the left. When you see a cabin, traverse horizontally several metres to the left. (Do not go too near to the cabin where there are some harder routes.)
Pitch 8 is an obvious corner crack (3 bolts visible) to the left of the route "lapp top", 30m before the cabin

Pitch 8: 5b Climb the corner, then slightly leftwards to another corner, which is bypassed by a slab on the left.

Pitch 9: 5b A jamming crack, a slab and then another crack.

Pitch 10: 4a A slab to finish.

From the top of the route, climb a gully for a few metres, then traverse a slab leftwards to another gully, red markings. Go up this to reach a faint path. Follow this to the left, cairns. The path becomes more obvious. (The way down to the cabin can be seen lower on the right.) At around 1200m you reach a traverse path. Follow this impressive path as it wends it way through two bands of cliff, passing next to some very impressive modern routes. After a ladder and a bridge the path climbs upwards to join the main track leading back into Les Granges.

Location

From Les Granges above Salvan (1060m)

Park in any of the parking lots in the village of Les Granges above Salvan. Walk directly through the village keeping right on the "Rue du Village and not the road that goes upwards on the left. After the tarmac ends continue a short distance to a fork in the track. Take the left one, signposted "Tête des Crêtes", which descends into the forest. Now follow the signs for "marmites glacières". The path has recently been re-routed slightly to avoid some pastures. It passes between two boulders used as gate posts, (a bolt in each boulder!), passes above two old chalets then crosses a wooden bridge before arriving at a signpost "Tete des Cretes 1047m. Turn left here, signposted "Gorges des Dalleys", to reach a signpost "Danger : montée des eaux". A path now descends steeply for a long way (180m of descent), initially near a water pipe. There is a path on the left with lots of cairns, which crosses the stream, fixed rope, alt. 860m. Go up the other side and follow the fixed ropes until you come to a rope leading downwards on the right, red paint marks. The path now traverses until another fixed rope which helps one climb down a 15m corner, (abseil possible). Cross a broader gully then climb a little gully, (2m of fixed rope) to reach a ledge and the start of the climb on the right behind a tree. The route name is painted in red on the rock. If you get to "Milles dévisse", you have gone too far.

Protection

Bolts with bolted anchors.

Photos

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