All Locations > International > N America > Canada > Alberta > Ghost (North, S… > S Ghost > Devil's Gap > Saddle Peak

The Wooden Spoon

Name: The Wooden Spoon
Rating: 4.0

M7-

Routes in Saddle Peak

Wooden Spoon, The M7-

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Type:	Mixed, 120 ft (36 m), 2 pitches, Grade III
GPS:	51.26118, -115.22065
FA:	Jeff M, Craig S, Ross F
Page Views:	441 total · 6/month
Shared By:	Quinn Turner on May 20, 2020
Admins:	Dave Rone, Tom Jones, Richard Rose, Rhys Beaudry Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

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Located deep in the South ghost, a phenomenal mixed route that few venture far enough to enjoy. Directly across from the wide valley of Lacy Gibbett is a steep curtain of ice easily visible from the fork. Approach up the drainage, skip the approach pitch by walking around (ultra thin) and make your way a few hundred meters of elevation up.

Pitch 1: M6/M7 10 bolts, 25m: climb excellent rock to a bolted anchor on the right side of the ice.

Pitch 2: Wi4+ 30 meter curtain takes you to the top. Set a directional off ice or small trees and head to a large tree on climbers left. 60 meter doubles will reach.

Descent: rappel off tree to bolted anchor then to ground.

Location

Take devils gap trail for 2 hours from devils gap parking lot. Route will be high on Saddle mountain off to looker's left. Mixed pitch is not visible from valley.