PRINT: Rock Climb Born Again, Squamish

Born Again

5.10b, Trad, 800 ft (242 m), 7 pitches, Grade II,

Avg: 3.6 from 132 votes
FA: p1,2, 4&5 partial, 7, and FCFA Kris Wild, Fraser Young, Phil Bonham, May 2020 p3, 4&5 partial, 6, Gordon Smaill & Squamish Hardcore, 1971 (Bloodlust)
International > N America > Canada > British Columbia > Squamish > Stawamus Chief > Apron > Central Apron

Access Issue: SIGNIFICANT ROCK FALL CLOSURES - UPDATED Feb 29th 2024 Details

For the most up-to-date information about closures in the Stawamus Chief Park, please refer to the following link: bcparks.ca/stawamus-chief-p…

The closures posted on this Mountain Project page are the latest according to the date mentioned above.

––––––––––

TRAIL TO THE PROW AND ECHELON WALL VIA THE SHERIFF'S BADGE CLOSURE

Due to a rockfall event on April 17, 2023, the approach/access trail to the Prow and Echelon wall via the Sheriff’s Badge have been impacted. Please stay out of this area until the full extent of this event has been determined.

Posted April 17, 2023

––––––––––

Due to multiple significant rockfalls in the North Wall, Slhanay, Grand Wall, and Western Dihedrals climbing areas of Stawamus Chief, a large number of climbing routes and bouldering areas are currently closed until further notice. Efforts are underway to assess and remove hazards in the hopes of opening some of these areas soon.

NORTH WALL CLOSURE

The following routes in this area remain closed until further notice due to a large rock fall event. All routes between Lunar Tide and Polaris on the upper Zodiac Wall, as well as all routes between Parallel Universe and Polaris on the Lower Zodiac Wall. The Climb known as Angel’s Crest is open, please be cautions on the approach and avoid the debris field to the left.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

GRAND WALL BOULDERS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following bouldering areas(and associated trails) remain closed until further notice. Lipsmack: Black Sabbath & Halfway Around the world, Octogon: Kemoslabby and Viper: Old and Serious, Beachcomber & Towlie.

Boudlering Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

WESTERN DIHEDRALS CLOSURE

Due to hazards created by significant rockfall events the following climbing routes between Teenage wasteland and Deadend Dihedral remain closed until further notice. Including: The Black Dyke, The Gauntlet, The Façade, Sticky Fingers, Sunset Strip, Millenium Falcon, Rutabaga, Turnip Arrowroot, and Europa.

Climbing Route Closure Map: nrs.objectstore.gov.bc.ca/k…

Updated June 30, 2023

Access Issue: Camping Details

The popularity of Squamish within the #vanlife community has increased to the point that there is great concern about the group’s collective environmental impact. “Wild” or “Freedom” camping has become unmanageable environmentally because of the high numbers of campers. This is a serious issue that causes conflict between locals, home owners, and climbers!

VAN CAMPING / WILD CAMPING

Within District Boundaries

The  District of Squamish PROHIBITS camping within the municipal boundary. This includes sleeping in a vehicle anywhere within District boundaries. A bylaw gives the District the power to issue tickets for contraventions.

Camping on urban / residential streets is prohibited under pre-existing bylaws.

The “hot spots” that have been of most concern are below.

· The whole of the Mamquam Forest Service Road under the North Walls of the Chief between the junction with the 99 and junction with the Stawamus/Indian Arm Forest Service Road (as a salmon run and sensitive riparian area, camping close to the Stawamus River is especially inappropriate)

· The Powerhouse Springs Road including the parking area for the Fern Hill cliff

· The dirt road to the kitesurfing “Spit.”

Outside of District Boundaries

If you explore forest roads in crown land outside the municipal boundaries, it may be possible to find discreet roadside sites suitable for tents or van camping. However, the provincial authorities do have some restrictions ;

· Stays are limited to 14 days.

· Campers should follow Leave No Trace principles. HUMAN WASTE is a major issue.

· Strictly observe any current fire bans.

DESIGNATED CAMPGROUNDS

Please see the District of Squamish website for a comprehensive list of designated campgrounds.

Recommended affordable camping:

- At the Chief: Stawamus Chief Provincial Park Campground BC parks site, spots start at $10.00 CAD/person. No reservations.
- 7 minutes north: Mamquam River Campground A non-profit site, spots start at $15.00cad/night for a drive-in site. Reservations recommended, not required.
- 20 minutes north: Chek Canyon Recreation Site A public site; no fees, no reservations and world class sport-climbing. No running water. The road is steep and rough but 4x4 not required

Description

This route combines sections of older, under-appreciated climbs with new pitches to create the best protected 5.10 on the Apron. Begin 20m right of Snake at the low-point of the approach trail heading towards Diedre.

5.8, 35m Ascend the slab past several bolts and discontinuous crack features to a ledge on the right.
5.9, 30m Thin moves with close bolts leads to easy rambling and a station 10m above the large ledge. The old station out left on the ledge is the top of P1 of Dream On.
5.9, 45m Step right into the thin corner and follow it all the way to the top. A few face moves to the left take you to the anchor. Many nut and small cam placements.
10b, 25m Past an old chain station at the top of the corner, and horizontally out right across the slab. You will be crossing Dancing in the Light at your 4th bolt. Continue right to the base of a crack system. (Bloodlust Direct comes straight up to this station from below)
10a, 30m Up intermittent cracks until forced to step right around the arete into flakes on the sidewall of the Diedre corner. Up these for several metres, then back left past two bolts into the next crack system. You may need to give climbers on Diedre space when in the close section. Belay at the large ledge with a cedar tree. (Stepping left at the end of the initial crack to old bolts is the crux of Bloodlust, 5.11b)
5.9, 35m The splitter hands-to-fingers corner, and face crack above. Begin on the right behind the tree.
5.9, 50m Step right into a scoop, and follow the blunt arete to a station just below a ramp leading to Broadway ledge

Descent: Probably wise to keep the rope on to get up onto Broadway, then down right to the top of Diedre. 40m 4th class. Standard Apron descent to the South.

Location

Approach via the regular Apron approach trail for the Central Apron routes. 30m after climbing the V-groove past the start of Snake, the route begins at the low-point of the trail, before it goes up to Diedre, Banana Peel, etc.

Protection

"Standard" trad rack, nuts and cams to 3" (7.5cm), with doubles of 3/8"-1.5" cams (1-4cm). Optional use of more small cams for P3 only.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

View from the parking lot.

Looking down the long, thin corner of p3.

If you're interested... this was the pro I used for the 3rd pitch. I just happened to have my offsets with me so I used a BD .1-.2, .2-.3, .4, .5, .75, a #2 and two draws. The #2 was the largest…

Looking down the super fun pitch 3

Looking down pitch 2 from the anchor

Start of pitch one.

More first ascent day stoke. Climbers in the background on Read Between the Lines.

First ascent cheer, despite the drizzle.

The route ascends the line of white features up the centre of the photo.

Looking back at the traverse pitch

View up the last pitch p7. Red rope was for route cleaning and has been removed.

Looking up the splitter cracks of p6.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Joël Faubert
Squamish (Colombie-Britanni…

Just climbed this today after work and had a great time. Pitches 3, 5 and 6 are the money. Slab pitches are thoughtful and well protected. Great addition to the Apron! May 26, 2020

Mike Hengeveld

This route is the bomb; all killer, no filler. Kudos for the scrubbing and fixed pro to yield excellent positions on amazing rock. Bringing extra finger sized and smaller pro makes this a very well protected Apron route. Being so close to the Diedre conga line is also pretty special. Sep 5, 2020

Nick Scott
Vancouver, BC

Great climb! Bringing doubles from 0- .3 definitely help sow up the 3rd pitch. The last pitch however is in no way a 5.9 slab pitch. Closer to 5.6 or 5.7. you can practically walk it standing up. it certainly is not harder than pitch 1 May 9, 2021

Ben Flynn

Fantastic outing! Slab climbing was great, crack climbing was amazing. No serious runouts, this is a spectacular way to climb the Apron. Every pitch of this climb can be done easily with a single rack, however, if you are a bit less confident, then bring some more gear in the 0-.3 range for the 3rd pitch. 10 quickdraws is enough for the final pitch (most bolts), however not all are needed, as Nick Scott is correct, the final pitch is 5.7 May 13, 2021

KrisW
Squamish BC

5.10b

Just to clarify. The "last pitch" that is rated 5.9 (pitch 7) may be getting confused with the last little bit of roped scrambling to access the descent route. That little bit of rock could indeed be rated 4th class, and done standing up, but the consequences of a mistake unroped or unbelayed could be fatal. (pretty much sums up all 4th class terrain...)
K Dec 5, 2021

Uknown Unknown
Vancouver, BC

10b slab felt like 10b/c

Linked p1 and 2, heavy rope and drag, not ideal Jun 13, 2023

Austin Donisan
San Mateo, CA

5.10a

A great climb that was amazingly empty compared to the nearby Apron routes. Don't let the "5.10" slab scare you away, the bolts are 5' apart and you could climb it at 5.8 A0 (the last two bolts are weirdly misplaced though).

Linking p1 and p2 is doable since the hard moves are near the start of the p2, but they are non-trivial 5.9.
Pitch 7 is mostly 5.5 and you can easily clip every other bolt if you don't have enough draws.

Absolutely don't bring a #3, it's useless. Aug 4, 2023

Khoi
Vancouver, BC

If you like splitter cracks then do whatever it takes to make sure YOU get to lead pitch 6! It's the best pitch on the route IMO. Pitches 3 and 5 are also good, but pitch 6 is the standout money pitch.

The last pitch is definitely easier than the first pitch...

I found a placement for a #3 in the horizontal crack right before you start the friction slab traverse of pitch 4. Otherwise, you can do without anything bigger than a #2 Aug 5, 2023

Alexandros Kazantzidis
College Station, TX

5.10b

I found anything bigger than a #2 to be useless.

I'd say doubles between 0 and 0.3 are a must for the third pitch.
The crack isn't particularly hard, I thought it was 5.8, with the 5.9 moves being the bolt protected face moves at the end of the pitch, but the crack itself is thin and shallow.
Even tripling up in the 0 - 0.3 range seems sensible to me for that pitch.

The rest of the pitches take really good pro, or are bolted, or both, and anything above doubles in the 0.4-#2 range (microcams excluded) is total overkill.

Pitch 6 is money! Jun 9, 2024

Sandy Dash
Beaverton, OR

We climbed this route on July 6, 2024. If you would like a trip report with detailed gear beta, pictures of each pitch and overall experience then please see: dashertonclimbs.com/2024/07… Jul 18, 2024