Mountain Project Logo
To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments so you only print what you need.

The Enchanter

5.12+, Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches,  Avg: 4 from 9 votes
FA: Z. Harrison, B. McCord
Arizona > Northern Arizona > Sedona Area > W Sedona > Dry Creek Rd Area > Boynton Canyon > Disenchantment Wall

Description

The Line on the Wall, climbs the obvious prow on the right edge.

P1 | 11 | Crank some thin patina off the ground moving right out a mini roof and into a out facing corner. When it dies continue up more patina and bolts to a HUGE PARTY LEDGE.

P2 | 12+ | Head straight up from the anchor clipping bolts and cranking patina towards shallow left facing corners. Esoteric movement in a great position leads to a couple gear placements and more wild climbing. Amazing 40m pitch! 1 Med nut, .4, .5, .75

Variation Pitch 2 | 12- | An alternate pitch that keeps the route at a more manageable grade. More 15' left on the party ledge and follow bolts up sweet patina into a short crack, exiting right up and engaging offset. Continue up past more bolts and a some gear that leads to an anchor. From this anchor traverse right and up to rejoin the route.

P3 | 11 | Climb up the short feature then follow a rad horizontal right and up to a Swiss Cheese crack pillar and a ledge with an anchor.

P4 | 10+ | Follow the crack systems up and left into a dihedral to a ledge just below the summit.

Descent
Rap the route with a 70m route. Be sure to use the anchor atop the variation pitch.

Location

Furthest right route on the wall around a corner. Climbs the main prow of the wall.

Protection

70m Rope
12 Draws
3 Runners
Singles 00c3 - #3
Medium nut

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Looking down on P3
[Hide Photo] Looking down on P3
The 12+ crux sequence.
[Hide Photo] The 12+ crux sequence.
Casey starting crux pitch
[Hide Photo] Casey starting crux pitch
Pitch 2
[Hide Photo] Pitch 2

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Kevin Kent
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climbing, it seems like a lot of these new age Sedona face routes get labeled "Red Rocks-esque" but I think it's time to acknowledge good climbing doesn't have to be the exception in Sedona and we can all just start calling this great style the new Sedona-esque. I really admire the vision it takes to schelp out to this wall and put up a route like this ground up(I think this was down ground up, right?). That said some of the bolting is a bit sporty, and you need to be solid on 5.11 for clipping the first bolts on pitches 1 and 2. Jun 8, 2020
Casey Rhoades
Flagstaff, AZ
  5.12+
[Hide Comment] 2nd pitch is shangri-la-esque 4 star 12+ endurance climbing. Jun 9, 2020
Josh Janes

 
[Hide Comment] The medium nut might be a #7 BD Stopper.

Also, a bolt on the variation appeared to have a smashed hanger. I do not know if it is still clippable. Nov 30, 2021
michalm
 
[Hide Comment] Fantastic climbing on the crux pitch. I used a 0.75, 0.4, and 0.5 (skipped 0.5 on redpoint). It is now possible to rap or lower from the top of the 12+ with an 80m rope. Cragging from the ledge might be desirable if both partners want to lead the pitch.
If you brought a 70m, please rap down to the variation anchor instead of rapping back to the 12+ anchor. Nov 30, 2021
Skyler Mavor
[Hide Comment] Spoiler gear beta to save you from carrying more than what you need:

P1: 7 bolts, tips to thin hands gear, optional tiny cam. Great pitch.

P2: 12 bolts with gear specified above. Fragile edges lead to amazing climbing.

P3: 4 Bolts and a few thin hands and hands sized pieces. Short pitch that ends at the top of what you can see from the P2 anchor.

P4: No bolts, hands to tiny gear. Oct 16, 2023