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> Disenchantment Wall
The Enchanter
5.12+ YDS 7c French 28 Ewbanks IX UIAA 27 ZA E6 6b British
Avg: 4 from 9
votes
Routes in The Disenchantment Wall
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Burcham's Hold Emporium S 5.11- 6c 22 VIII- 22 E3 5c |
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Creeping Extinction T 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a PG13 |
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Didgeri-Don't, Homeboy T 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Enchanter, The T 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Trad, 400 ft (121 m), 4 pitches |
| FA: | Z. Harrison, B. McCord |
| Page Views: | 1,374 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Blake M on May 18, 2020 |
| Admins: | Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, Brian Boyd, JJ Schlick, Kemper Brightman |
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Description
The Line on the Wall, climbs the obvious prow on the right edge.
P1 | 11 | Crank some thin patina off the ground moving right out a mini roof and into a out facing corner. When it dies continue up more patina and bolts to a HUGE PARTY LEDGE.
P2 | 12+ | Head straight up from the anchor clipping bolts and cranking patina towards shallow left facing corners. Esoteric movement in a great position leads to a couple gear placements and more wild climbing. Amazing 40m pitch! 1 Med nut, .4, .5, .75
Variation Pitch 2 | 12- | An alternate pitch that keeps the route at a more manageable grade. More 15' left on the party ledge and follow bolts up sweet patina into a short crack, exiting right up and engaging offset. Continue up past more bolts and a some gear that leads to an anchor. From this anchor traverse right and up to rejoin the route.
P3 | 11 | Climb up the short feature then follow a rad horizontal right and up to a Swiss Cheese crack pillar and a ledge with an anchor.
P4 | 10+ | Follow the crack systems up and left into a dihedral to a ledge just below the summit.
Descent
Rap the route with a 70m route. Be sure to use the anchor atop the variation pitch.
P1 | 11 | Crank some thin patina off the ground moving right out a mini roof and into a out facing corner. When it dies continue up more patina and bolts to a HUGE PARTY LEDGE.
P2 | 12+ | Head straight up from the anchor clipping bolts and cranking patina towards shallow left facing corners. Esoteric movement in a great position leads to a couple gear placements and more wild climbing. Amazing 40m pitch! 1 Med nut, .4, .5, .75
Variation Pitch 2 | 12- | An alternate pitch that keeps the route at a more manageable grade. More 15' left on the party ledge and follow bolts up sweet patina into a short crack, exiting right up and engaging offset. Continue up past more bolts and a some gear that leads to an anchor. From this anchor traverse right and up to rejoin the route.
P3 | 11 | Climb up the short feature then follow a rad horizontal right and up to a Swiss Cheese crack pillar and a ledge with an anchor.
P4 | 10+ | Follow the crack systems up and left into a dihedral to a ledge just below the summit.
Descent
Rap the route with a 70m route. Be sure to use the anchor atop the variation pitch.
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