Type: Trad, 150 ft (45 m)
FA: Steve Hong
Page Views: 1,121 total · 103/month
Shared By: Will Sharp on May 18, 2020 · Updates
Admins: slim, Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No Toilet Facilities! Raptor Nesting Climbing Avoidance Areas - In Effect March 1st 2021 Details
Access Issue: RAIN, WET ROCK and RAPTOR CLOSURES: The sandstone around Moab is fragile and is very easily damaged when it is wet. Also please ask and be aware of Raptor Closures in areas such as CAT WALL and RESERVOIR WALL in Indian Creek Details

Description

As per David Bloom in the 2008 guide book.  This climb is in an access sensitive area due to its proximity to the Dugout Ranch and the Paragon Prow.  He chose to not include most routes at this wall to discourage excessive climber traffic that might compromise access to this and many other walls in Indian Creek.  If you are truly up to the task please go in small parties and maintain a low profile.  

Probably one of the finest cracks in the Creek, or for that matter, anywhere. 45 meters of perfect varnish stone. Run 4 laps back to back on Slice and Dice and you'll probably be ready...

Bring all your green Camalots, and probably all your buddies too.

Tricks starts in a right facing corner with thin fingers opening to thin hands at a little ledge where you can milk a little rest before the business. From here set sail into a semmingly endless section of ring locks thru 2 overlaps until it drops to rattly fingers towards the top. Hold your shit together and juice your way to the anchors. Placing gear definitely adds difficulty so trim down that rack and stretch it out!

An extension continues another 50(?) feet at a similar size. Not sure what this would do to the grade.

Location

Cant miss it. Center stage.

Protection

My rack was: (BD sizes)
Blue metolius
0.3
2x 0.4
4x 0.5
1 red metolius
#1
2x #2
7x 0.75
You may want more 0.75 and 0.5 for a first burn.
Ropes:
2 60M
We did stretch an 80M but both ends were about 6' off the ground so watch out!

Photos