Type: Sport, 65 ft (20 m)
FA: Josie Wodraska, JBaker, May 2020
Page Views: 406 total · 34/month
Shared By: jbak x on May 17, 2020
Admins: Greg Opland, Luke Bertelsen, JJ Schlick, Brian Boyd

You & This Route


3 Opinions

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Description

How this obvious line sat for 25 years is beyond me. I figured Mike or Tony or EFR or SOMEBODY must have looked and decided it was too hard or too chossy or something.

I was also surprised how much loose sh*t I was able to pry off. At elevation just under 8000 feet i expect better rock quality.

Climb easy but fun 20 foot dihedral to a ledge. The scary-looking blocks above the ledge seem solid and have been reinforced. You don't really use them anyway.

Above the ledge, launch into a 35 foot, skin-tearing, faintly overhanging crux with a ton of cool sequences. After that you will hit a pod/bucket, and do a celebration cruise up the last 10 feet of beautiful holds.

There is a keeper bolt for the belayer just left of dihedral. Could be used for CJunkie also.

Location

Obvious dihedral just right of Cowboy Junkie.

Protection

Stainless steel bolts. Some are 3/8 by 3.75. Some are half inch. Climbtech hooks at anchor.

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