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20 Second Scrub

5.8+, Trad, TR, 75 ft (23 m),  Avg: 3.3 from 9 votes
FA: Ethan Berkeland, Jonathan Koenig and Tristan Odonoghue May 2020
Alaska > Fairbanks & Vic… > Tanana River Bl… > Pandemic Area

Description

Ascend up a lower angle ramp with loose rock to a more vertical face with a discontinuous crack system next to a chimney feature. Stay near chimney until no longer able to stem then mount the upper section(crux). Layback and smear up crack on great rock passing old anchor to higher up 2 bolt anchor.

Location

Left most crack when looking at bluff from below.

Protection

Single rack to 3. Extra 2s and 3s would make the last 25 feet much easier to protect.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Leftmost crack with Jonathan at location of anchor.
[Hide Photo] Leftmost crack with Jonathan at location of anchor.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Mayor Berkowitz
Fairbanks, AK
  5.8+
[Hide Comment] Dirty and chossy at the bottom but don’t lose hope! Very fun clean climbing for the second half of the route. There is now an extension to an upper anchor for a few more fun moves. May 12, 2020