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Rubicon
5.8,
Trad, TR, 65 ft (20 m),
Avg: 3 from 1
vote
FA: Woody Holliman
N Carolina
> 4. Eastern Region
> Trestle
> River (South) Face
Access Issue: Private Property
Details
The climbing area is technically on railroad property. This guide is for historical purposes.
Description
No obvious crux, but the climbing is sustained and enjoyable.
Location
Begin at the bottom right side of the South Face (at the base of The Spice is Right) and follow a diagonal path to the top left corner of the wall using an assortment of bolts, railroad spikes (tied off with slings), and small cams or nuts for protection.
Protection
2 or 3 bolts, several railroad spikes, light rack. Rim anchors w/chains. Beware: There's a significant gap between bolts at the start (ground fall potential). Look for a tiny gear placement out left. Also consider clipping one of the bolts on Itchy Bitch with an extra-long sling. This route can be top-roped, but you'll need to set your anchors at the middle of the wall to minimize the swing factor. Also make sure you're not going to collide with an adjacent climber.
[Hide Photo] Diagonal rope indicates the direction of Rubicon, which starts at the bottom right corner of the South Face and finishes at the top left corner.