Type: Trad, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Rob Waldsen & Brad Metz; 2011
Page Views: 444 total · 12/month
Shared By: Gosh Glance on May 11, 2020
Admins: Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters

You & This Route

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Heads up small rib/buttresss just right and uphill of Double Dong, Move past some shrubs to a slab with a low roof. Clip the bolt and move right (crux, for me) to gain a ramp with a handcrack, which you can jam and stem up or lieback. When the crack ends near a tree, continue up and a bit right to a blocky ledge system, at which point you'll head up left via a mossy ramp to the chains.

There's a very thin, PG-13 5.10a(?) variation you can do with a leftward traverse, which begins at the tree when the ramp crack ends. There's no pro until after the traverse, at which point you can place a micro cam (black totem worked great). There's also a random (new) bolt about 10 easy feet from the chains. If this variation is the ACTUAL route, there's no way it's 5.7, but no way of knowing because the book doesn't have a description.


Just right of the rightmost route on Dildome (Double Dong, .11b). Look for a belayer bolt and a second bolt on a slab up and left. Hard to miss the belayer's bolt from the right side of Dildome Wall.


One bolt on slab down low; Gear to 3", but you could slot a #4. Stainless chain anchors up top.