Type: | Trad, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Rob Waldsen & Brad Metz; 2011 |
Page Views: | 444 total · 12/month |
Shared By: | Gosh Glance on May 11, 2020 |
Admins: | Jon Nelson, Micah Klesick, Z Winters |
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Description
Heads up small rib/buttresss just right and uphill of Double Dong, Move past some shrubs to a slab with a low roof. Clip the bolt and move right (crux, for me) to gain a ramp with a handcrack, which you can jam and stem up or lieback. When the crack ends near a tree, continue up and a bit right to a blocky ledge system, at which point you'll head up left via a mossy ramp to the chains.
There's a very thin, PG-13 5.10a(?) variation you can do with a leftward traverse, which begins at the tree when the ramp crack ends. There's no pro until after the traverse, at which point you can place a micro cam (black totem worked great). There's also a random (new) bolt about 10 easy feet from the chains. If this variation is the ACTUAL route, there's no way it's 5.7, but no way of knowing because the book doesn't have a description.
There's a very thin, PG-13 5.10a(?) variation you can do with a leftward traverse, which begins at the tree when the ramp crack ends. There's no pro until after the traverse, at which point you can place a micro cam (black totem worked great). There's also a random (new) bolt about 10 easy feet from the chains. If this variation is the ACTUAL route, there's no way it's 5.7, but no way of knowing because the book doesn't have a description.
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