Avg: 2 from 1 vote
|Type:||Trad, Ice, Alpine, 100 ft (30 m), Grade III|
|Page Views:||472 total · 19/month|
|Shared By:||mike d on May 10, 2020|
|Admins:||Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC|
30 feet of steep ice leads to 60 or 70 feet of WI2. The steep bit is longer and steeper than it looks from below, and it may be thin and delaminated. The upper section should be thicker.
To descend, either v-thread where the ice runs out (~30m to the base) or continue up a bit and rappel off your choice of bushes or stubby trees.
Follow the Blue Lakes Trail 2.5 miles, past a large clearing and into a strip of forest below the east face of "S4." Leave the trail (38.0085, -107.8206), climbing southwest towards the face. You should see the ice in a shaded, right-facing corner just left of a deeply inset couloir. Climb steepening snow to the base of the ice. It may be difficult not to bomb the belay.
This is a spring climb. Aim for early May. An alpine start is recommended--the route is in avalanche terrain, and the rock comes apart when things warm up. Extreme caution is warranted if there are not already avalanche troughs beneath the route and adjoining couloirs.
The Blue Lakes Trailhead may not be snow-free by May. Usually you can get close enough. Skis or snowshoes are recommended.