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Better Dead Than Bored

5.10d, Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches,  Avg: 2 from 1 vote
FA: Hughes, Childs, Rock, 2010
Colorado > S Platte > Tarryall > Falcon Buttress

Description

Pitch 1: head up the amazing finger crack for 30-40 feet using fingerlocks, pod jams, and face features. Blow through the small, left-leaning corner until you reach a ledge at the base of the huge, right-leaning corner system with a roof. Belay here, 5.10d.

Pitch 2: stem, jam, and work your way up the corner system, traversing right on the slab under the roof. From a ledge, continue up the corner system until you are atop a large boulder/flake. Head left on the slab ridge to the summit. Belay using the bolted anchor. 5.8ish

Descent: rappel from summit with two 60m ropes, straight down the main face between blastoff and the corner system. You could leave a rope at base, then tag it up for second once your first is down.

Location

It is on the right side of the wall, down a bit from Blastoff and next to a left-facing corner.

Protection

A standard rack to a #4.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The pitch 1 crack, Original Route on Space Station, .9+
[Hide Photo] The pitch 1 crack, Original Route on Space Station, .9+

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

mike h
Front Range, CO
[Hide Comment] Per 'Tarryall Granite' by Strappo Hughes, this is Better Dead Than Bored, 10d, FA: Hughes, Childs, Rock 2010. May 10, 2020