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Better Dead Than Bored
5.10d YDS 6b+ French 21 Ewbanks VII+ UIAA 21 ZA E3 5b British
Avg: 2 from 1
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Routes in Falcon Buttress
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Better Dead Than Bored T 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Blastoff T 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 200 ft (61 m), 2 pitches |
| FA: | Hughes, Childs, Rock, 2010 |
| Page Views: | 415 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Mike Adler on May 10, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Description
Pitch 1: head up the amazing finger crack for 30-40 feet using fingerlocks, pod jams, and face features. Blow through the small, left-leaning corner until you reach a ledge at the base of the huge, right-leaning corner system with a roof. Belay here, 5.10d.
Pitch 2: stem, jam, and work your way up the corner system, traversing right on the slab under the roof. From a ledge, continue up the corner system until you are atop a large boulder/flake. Head left on the slab ridge to the summit. Belay using the bolted anchor. 5.8ish
Descent: rappel from summit with two 60m ropes, straight down the main face between blastoff and the corner system. You could leave a rope at base, then tag it up for second once your first is down.
Pitch 2: stem, jam, and work your way up the corner system, traversing right on the slab under the roof. From a ledge, continue up the corner system until you are atop a large boulder/flake. Head left on the slab ridge to the summit. Belay using the bolted anchor. 5.8ish
Descent: rappel from summit with two 60m ropes, straight down the main face between blastoff and the corner system. You could leave a rope at base, then tag it up for second once your first is down.
Location
It is on the right side of the wall, down a bit from Blastoff and next to a left-facing corner.
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