Type: Boulder, 15 ft (5 m)
FA: unknown
Page Views: 730 total · 19/month
Shared By: Sean Ferrell on May 10, 2020
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C

You & This Route


11 Opinions

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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed Details

Description

Another gem on the backside of the mom boulder. This one is similar to Face Off (left), but the holds are smaller, it is longer, and the landing is worse.

Flaky rock, still, unfortunately, which detracts a star for me. But the movement is phenomenal.

The hard part is low, so to extract the most value (and difficulty) out of this one, you need to start as low as possible. Start sitting with a thin pad on the rock. Feet go about as low down on the wall as I can get them, left hand is near my waist, on an oblong rounded hold. Right hand is a little higher, on a crimpy little ball-- maybe shoulder height when I am sitting (this hold is circled in Tanner's LCC app guidebook). Power up through techy slopey holds, and after about 3 moves (at my height), you get to the halfway mark, mentioned below.

Well worth a try if you've already done the others in roughly this difficulty range in the area.

If you start on the good holds halfway up the boulder, it goes at roughly the same difficulty as Face Off (left).

Sometimes given v10, and could be. 

Location

Backside of Mom boulder, on the big gentle overhang. 

Protection

nice to have 5-6 pads if possible

Photos