All Locations > California > San Francisco B… > Hicks Rd > Rdside Rock

Albino

Name: Albino
Rating: 3.3

5.10c YDS 6b French 20 Ewbanks VII UIAA 20 ZA E2 5b British

Routes in Roadside Rock

L › R R › L A › Z

	Albino TR 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Daddy's BMW S,TR 5.7 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b
	Daddy's Dream Seam TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Daddy's Midlife Crisis S,TR 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c
	Hands That Go Bump in the Night S,TR 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Pet Memorial Services S,TR 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a
	Unknown T,TR 5.0 2- 4 I 6 MM 1c

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Type:	TR, 40 ft (12 m)
FA:	unknown
Page Views:	1,137 total · 30/month
Shared By:	Clayton Woock on May 9, 2020
Admins:	Aron Quiter, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Description

Disclaimer: I would be surprised if nobody has ever climbed this route before, but I cannot find it established online anywhere. I recommend a grade of 5.10c (if "Hand That Go Bump In The Night" is 5.10b, this is definitely more difficult).

Route: Start on the corner of the arete. Follow the crack to the right, around the arete, onto the graffiti-buffed face and continue following the crack. When the crack ends, traverse left onto the moss-covered shelf and mantle to top out at the anchor. (See photo for details)

Location

40 foot rock on the side of the road with ample parking; it's hard to miss

Protection

Scramble up the left side of the rock to set up a two-bolt top rope anchor. Use the bolt hangers. I personally used a 30ft long 7mm cordelette and rigged a "magic-x" with stopper knots to create a self-equalizing anchor. The belayer belayed from the road's edge. You should ALWAYS use YOUR OWN best judgment to determine the best anchor setup and rigging for the route you intend to climb.