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Anarkhia

5.14b, Sport, 65 ft (20 m),  Avg: 3 from 5 votes
FA: Kevin Capps, 2020
Colorado > Golden > Clear Creek Canyon > Anarchy Wall
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Description

Anarkhia: the state of a society being without authorities or an authoritative governing body. A fitting name for the year of the first ascent.

Come prepared with your technical climbing skills and crimp power for this one! This route has a hard, sustained crux section on good stone that uses a variety of crimps, undercling edges, pinches, and smeary feet. Cold temps and fresh skin will make the holds a little easier to grab.

This was a project for around 20 years or so, but that's a total guess. I'm assuming the original developers of this wall worked on this line and were also the people who put in the two or three "working bolts." I got a permit to bolt the entire line, so I cleaned it, removed the old bolts, and bolted it to the top of the wall. It turned out pretty cool and is a great addition to the crag. Around the first bolt there is a ledge to the right, I did not use it, and I don't think it would really help unless you find something that I didn't. It climbs much better staying left, directly on the bolt line anyway!

Location

It is to the right of the classic, Anarchitect, and to the left of Chaos near the center of the main wall.

Protection

7 bolts.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The route goes up the center of the photo.
[Hide Photo] The route goes up the center of the photo.
The first crux with bad beta.
[Hide Photo] The first crux with bad beta.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Jay Samuelson
Colorado
 
[Hide Comment] Nice job on this one, Kevin! Checked it out today but wasn't able to figure out the crux sequences, it was hard and technical, but good climbing, good bolting, and a great name! Nice addition to the wall and the canyon. May 16, 2020
[Hide Comment] This climb is fantastic - an extremely crimpy adventure in a wall of hard, slopey routes. It's a shame the hard climbing is over after about 15 or 20 feet, but each of those moves are interesting and bloody nails (it would make a four star V10-11 boulder). Well done on this, Kevin! Jan 6, 2021