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The Schtick

V9, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 2.4 from 5 votes
FA: unknown
New Mexico > Albuquerque Area > Big Block > Bouldering Cave

Description

SDS down and right of the Baseball Problem. Strenuous moves down low on crimps and pinches lead up and left to join the Baseball Problem and up through the plate between the left and right Baseball Problem variations.

Location

Down and right of Baseball Problem

Protection

3 pads is nice

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Trying to work out a sequence for the lower moves. Start holds are left of the right knee
[Hide Photo] Trying to work out a sequence for the lower moves. Start holds are left of the right knee
The line
[Hide Photo] The line

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Abram Chavez
Albuquerque
  V9-10
[Hide Comment] Attack? Hardly, simply pointing out that Owen at least has credibility and that I am not “making up names”. Again, I haven’t named anything myself, if someone with more credibility can provide info I will gladly update the post. May 8, 2020
[Hide Comment] FYI All the beta for this crag in my guide came from Timy Fairfield, names and grades included, who kindly gave me a tour of big block and the temple. A little extra beta came from Luke, William and Tom and Ted, all "OG" Albuquerque climbers. Grades are highly subjective and I tried to give the best consensus available at the time. Never going to make everyone happy! If you dont like my guidebook then dont use it. May 9, 2020
Abram Chavez
Albuquerque
  V9-10
[Hide Comment] Not blaming, it's called citing sources, which you just did by sharing that link. Yes the route you linked is v7, however, this is nowhere near the same problem. You can see how the route you cited starts by watching the video posted in the comments section of The Baseball Problem, (which has not been disputed and is how everyone I've met/spoken to has done them) or the photo Lee posted as the climber's body position in said photo suggests he came from the jug rail directly below the jug. This problem (The Schtick) starts about 5ft right of this start and shares only one or two holds (that I know of) with the v7 variation (one is a foot). May 15, 2020
Clint Clayton
  V9-10
[Hide Comment] instagram.com/p/B8-mDV6j3Qc…

2nd vid in the link was my interpretation of “The Schtick” from the guidebook. Felt somewhere in the realm of v9/10, but grades are hard to tell sometimes and highly subjective especially somewhere like Big Block. I started lower than jug the rail mentioned in the comments/pictures. Also lol at the argument over this boulder in the comments. Owen did an incredible job with his guide, if you disagree with grades/descriptions then just puff your chest and downgrade em Jul 19, 2020