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Renegade

V2+, Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),  Avg: 3 from 1 vote
FA: Kenton Anderson
Ohio > Southwest Ohio > Mad River Gorge… > MRG Southeast (… > Dirty Little Boulder

Description

For this boulder, don't use any of the surroundings for hands/feet.  This means that you will have to campus the first few moves until you get high enough to get your feet on the boulder.  Left hand starts on a decent pocket and right hand starts on a two finger pocket with a place for your thumb.  Campus your hands up until you can get a left foot heel hook on the large jug a couple inches above the left hand start hold.  Once you get the heel hook, get the best left hand you can find and stand up on the heel to grab a high right hand sidepull (this move is the crux).  After gaining the sidepull, you should be able to get your feet properly under you and find good hands top get to the topout.  There's a few different ways you can go at the top that are all fairly easy but I found that heading out right towards the spike at the top was the most secure and cleanest way to top out.  Maybe if some of the mud at the top gets cleaned off then topping out directly up the center might be preferable.  Just be careful at the top, the further left you go, the worse the rock quality gets, the muddier it gets, and the landing starts to get sketchy because of the rock behind/bellow you.

Check the photos and their descriptions for more information.

Also I just wanted to add that if you don't want to do the full topout, you can just climb until you get both hands either on or above the horizontal crack that goes across the entire boulder about a foot above the right hand side pull that you use during the crux of the climb.  At this point you have done all of the parts of the climb that give it the grade and can still drop off very safely.  There is a picture that highlights the more useful holds for the topout  and in the picture anything circled (except for the lowest circle, which is really a two finger pocket)  would work as a finish hold for a safe dropoff.

Location

This boulder is located between Pooh's Corner and Dirty Little Boulder.  I currently have it listed as unsorted under Dirty Little Boulder because there isn't actually a location name for the area yet.  If you are looking at Dirty Little Bolder, just walk 30-ish feet to the left and you should see this boulder suspended in the air on the same wall.  If you make it to Pooh's Corner then you've gone too far.

Protection

Two pads or one pad and a spotter will get the job done but the more pads you can get the better.  It's a high climb with a nice flat landing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

I tried to highlight some of the more useful holds for finishing by moving out right (mentioned in the description).  If the topout cleans up more, going directly up the center will probably be more preferred.  Either way, the top is like 5.7 climbing.
[Hide Photo] I tried to highlight some of the more useful holds for finishing by moving out right (mentioned in the description). If the topout cleans up more, going directly up the center will probably be mor…
These are the hands for The Renegade.  Left hand starts in a pocket a couple inches bellow a massive jug and right hand starts in some finger pockets that you can grab like a bowling ball.
[Hide Photo] These are the hands for The Renegade. Left hand starts in a pocket a couple inches bellow a massive jug and right hand starts in some finger pockets that you can grab like a bowling ball.
This is the "boundary" for the climb.  It's not as complicated as it sounds, you just can't use anything that isn't a part of the boulder.  This just forces you to campus the first couple moves.
[Hide Photo] This is the "boundary" for the climb. It's not as complicated as it sounds, you just can't use anything that isn't a part of the boulder. This just forces you to campus the first couple moves.
This is the right hand sidepull that you reach for in the crux of the climb (mentioned in the description).  After you get this move the climbing becomes really easy but scary because of how high up it is.
[Hide Photo] This is the right hand sidepull that you reach for in the crux of the climb (mentioned in the description). After you get this move the climbing becomes really easy but scary because of how high u…
This is The Renegade
[Hide Photo] This is The Renegade

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Courtney Curtner
Dayton, OH
[Hide Comment] Be careful toping out on this route as this area encroaches on another landowner's property. I believe the park boundary here actually ends at the top of the wall (though I may be recalling it incorrectly). Either way, not safe to be walking around on top of this portion of the cliff line. May 8, 2020
[Hide Comment] Yeah I could see the property marker a few feet back from the cliff line. This boulder is actually detached from the cliff line and if you walk behind it and out the crack to the right of the face you can downclimb the easier finish moves and then drop off. This can be pretty scary to do though so I would recommend just doing the finish mentioned at the end of the description that doesn't involve topping out. May 8, 2020