Type: Trad, 130 ft (39 m)
FA: various - linked up 5/2020
Page Views: 307 total · 8/month
Shared By: Tony B on May 6, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays Details


This route is a variation linking other routes with about 10% undocumented climbing. It is posted here as a fairly moderate, continuous, and direct line that is not documented as such, but in terms of new climbing, it vrAint No Big Thing.

Start on the 5.9- variation start of Red Fox, moving up under the juniper tree into the left-facing corner to its top, about 20' up. Instead of moving left across a ledge to the Red Fox cracks, head up and right over some fairly stable, stacked blocks up and into the main right-facing corner in the center of the crag. Continue up this corner past a good-sized pine (22" circumference - take one long sling to girth hitch this) and up to the top of this corner (5.8+).

Place a few good pieces, and head up a thin crack in a slab a ways below a big bulge. Head up this crack, place a few cams (2-2.5") on long slings to avoid rope drag, and reach the horizontal crack.

Traverse right under the bulge on slabby feet but great hand holds. Continue a few meters to the right to intercept the top crack of Vrain Dead from the left side. Protect with a few stoppers or small cams, putt over the bulge (5.7), and continue to the top of the crag and the 2 bolt anchor there.

Rap to the ground (barely) with a 70m rope if it stretches far enough, or rap to a ledge to the right, and scramble off.


Begin as for Red Fox, and climb up and right on the huge right-facing corner to intercept Vrain Dead at the top.


While this climb could probably be done on a 2x or 3x set of stoppers and nothing more, it is also doable with a single set of nuts and a single set of cams from small to 3". Take a few longer slings for the top end where the climb zig-zags, to eliminate rope drag, and a 70m rope unless you want to rap it in 2x raps.


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