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Routes in Vrain Dead
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Red Fox T 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Vrain Child S,TR 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a X |
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Vrain Dead T 5.8+ 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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vrAin't No Big Thing T 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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| Type: | Trad, 130 ft (39 m) |
| FA: | various - linked up 5/2020 |
| Page Views: | 307 total · 8/month |
| Shared By: | Tony B on May 6, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
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Access Issue: MM 23-29.5 - now ended daily CO 7 highway closure/delays
Details
Per Kai Bouwman: the daily CO 7 highway closure/delay access issue is no longer a problem according to CDOT the construction finished as of Nov. 11, 2022.
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
From CDOT: Colorado Highway 7 is closed daily from MP 23-29.5. Motorists can only travel through the area between 6-8 am and 4-7 pm. During these timeframes, pilot cars will lead alternating one-way travel. Drivers should plan for delays, and this schedule will remain in place through Memorial Day 2022.
During the closure, motorists need to take US 36 to CO 7.
codot.gov/projects/co7-lyon…
Description
This route is a variation linking other routes with about 10% undocumented climbing. It is posted here as a fairly moderate, continuous, and direct line that is not documented as such, but in terms of new climbing, it vrAint No Big Thing.
Start on the 5.9- variation start of Red Fox, moving up under the juniper tree into the left-facing corner to its top, about 20' up. Instead of moving left across a ledge to the Red Fox cracks, head up and right over some fairly stable, stacked blocks up and into the main right-facing corner in the center of the crag. Continue up this corner past a good-sized pine (22" circumference - take one long sling to girth hitch this) and up to the top of this corner (5.8+).
Place a few good pieces, and head up a thin crack in a slab a ways below a big bulge. Head up this crack, place a few cams (2-2.5") on long slings to avoid rope drag, and reach the horizontal crack.
Traverse right under the bulge on slabby feet but great hand holds. Continue a few meters to the right to intercept the top crack of Vrain Dead from the left side. Protect with a few stoppers or small cams, putt over the bulge (5.7), and continue to the top of the crag and the 2 bolt anchor there.
Rap to the ground (barely) with a 70m rope if it stretches far enough, or rap to a ledge to the right, and scramble off.
Start on the 5.9- variation start of Red Fox, moving up under the juniper tree into the left-facing corner to its top, about 20' up. Instead of moving left across a ledge to the Red Fox cracks, head up and right over some fairly stable, stacked blocks up and into the main right-facing corner in the center of the crag. Continue up this corner past a good-sized pine (22" circumference - take one long sling to girth hitch this) and up to the top of this corner (5.8+).
Place a few good pieces, and head up a thin crack in a slab a ways below a big bulge. Head up this crack, place a few cams (2-2.5") on long slings to avoid rope drag, and reach the horizontal crack.
Traverse right under the bulge on slabby feet but great hand holds. Continue a few meters to the right to intercept the top crack of Vrain Dead from the left side. Protect with a few stoppers or small cams, putt over the bulge (5.7), and continue to the top of the crag and the 2 bolt anchor there.
Rap to the ground (barely) with a 70m rope if it stretches far enough, or rap to a ledge to the right, and scramble off.
Location
Begin as for Red Fox, and climb up and right on the huge right-facing corner to intercept Vrain Dead at the top.
Protection
While this climb could probably be done on a 2x or 3x set of stoppers and nothing more, it is also doable with a single set of nuts and a single set of cams from small to 3". Take a few longer slings for the top end where the climb zig-zags, to eliminate rope drag, and a 70m rope unless you want to rap it in 2x raps.
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