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Forgetting Lasts So Long

V9, Boulder, 22 ft (7 m),  Avg: 4 from 9 votes
FA: Christian Prellwitz
New Hampshire > Lakes Region > Sandwich Notch > 01. Sandwich No… > Beede Falls Area > Alchemist Boulder

Description

Start crouching/sitting with the left hand on a small crimp on the left arete at around 4 feet and the right hand on an obvious crimp/sidepull at the same level, located about 4-5 feet right of the arete. The left hand starting hold is located a foot or so down from an obvious little bump on the arete. (See the photo of the starting holds below. The bump is the first chalked hold up from the starting left hand.) Make a hard first move to gain the small bump and then continue through a series of powerful compression moves to a crimp/edge rail at around 11 feet. From here, move left onto the slab and follow a line of good holds that angles left to reach the top of the boulder. Once established on the slab, the finishing moves are fairly easy but quite highball, topping out somewhere in the 20-25 foot range. A hard and sustained power endurance line that will likely test your fitness.

A brilliant and highly aesthetic line on flawless rock. Many repeaters have called this one of the best climbs in NH.

This was formerly known as 'The Alchemist Project'.

Location

This climb is located on the large overhanging part of the boulder, on the opposite side as most of the rest of the climbs. At the moment, this is the only climb on this side, though a few other lines have been tried. When facing the overhang, this problem starts on the left side by the left arete.

Protection

It is helpful to have a good amount of pads for this line, especially if you are wanting to protect the easy, upper moves. Somewhere around 3-5 pads should get the job done.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Christian Prellwitz on the FA of 'Forgetting Lasts So Long' (v9) in Sandwich Notch, NH. (Photo by Christian Prellwitz)
[Hide Photo] Christian Prellwitz on the FA of 'Forgetting Lasts So Long' (v9) in Sandwich Notch, NH. (Photo by Christian Prellwitz)
This photo shows the starting handholds for 'Forgetting Lasts So Long' (v9).
[Hide Photo] This photo shows the starting handholds for 'Forgetting Lasts So Long' (v9).

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Christian Prellwitz
Telluride, CO
  V9
[Hide Comment] Even though I sent this a while ago, I finally got around to posting it at the request of many people who wanted to know more about this line. While it's commonplace for people to overstate the quality of their FAs, this truly is an outstanding line and many repeaters have suggested it's one of the best of the grade in New England.

Anyhow, a big thank you goes to Matthew Wallace for first bringing this project to my attention. May 6, 2020