Type: Boulder, 20 ft (6 m)
FA: Ben Collett, 2009
Page Views: 1,316 total · 45/month
Shared By: Doc Holliday on May 5, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Description

Broken Wing is a variation of West Roof Direct excluding the pocket and arete holds. The essence of the climb is to use the 4 to 5 razor crimps. This line would be very, very good and unique for Flagstaff if not for the slightly contrived nature (arete is off). Still it's worth doing, so long as you bring your well-callused tips and steel tendons.

From Ben's 8a.nu page, "sit start as for West Roof Direct (on the big flakes). Make a big move out left to the right start hold of "Face With No Name," and work the three really small crimps directly above the start holds to the topout. The arete is off. The grade is a guess."

I made a big move directly up with the right hand (one move higher than beta below) then moved left the start hold of "Face With No Name" then upwards.    

8a.nu grades.

Beta:

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