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Routes in Face Wall
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Broken Wing V8- 7B |
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Face With No Name V6 7A |
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Horan's Traverse V7-8 7B |
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Mateus' Highstep V7-8 7B |
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Pocket's Off, Dick Dragger V1 5 |
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Right Side V1 5 |
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West Face Mantel Problem V1 5 |
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West Roof V3 6A |
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West Roof Direct V4 6B |
| Type: | Boulder, 20 ft (6 m) |
| FA: | Ben Collett, 2009 |
| Page Views: | 2,126 total · 44/month |
| Shared By: | Dark Helmet on May 5, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Description
Broken Wing is a variation of West Roof Direct excluding the pocket and arete holds. The essence of the climb is to use the 4 to 5 razor crimps. This line would be very, very good and unique for Flagstaff if not for the slightly contrived nature (arete is off). Still it's worth doing, so long as you bring your well-callused tips and steel tendons.
From Ben's 8a.nu page, "sit start as for West Roof Direct (on the big flakes). Make a big move out left to the right start hold of "Face With No Name," and work the three really small crimps directly above the start holds to the topout. The arete is off. The grade is a guess."
I made a big move directly up with the right hand (one move higher than beta below) then moved left the start hold of "Face With No Name" then upwards.
Beta:
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