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Sorry, We Came Early

5.11b, Sport, 60 ft (18 m),  Avg: 2.7 from 36 votes
FA: Dylan Butterfass and Evan LovleyMeyers 5/4/2020
Washington > Central-W Casca… > N Bend & Vicinity > Exit 38 > Far Side > Interstate Park > (c) Eastern Block

Description

Easy climbing to a V3 boulder problem, then cruiser to the top. Crux is using the terrible right-hand undercling to get to the small ledge directly below the 4th bolt. Going far right after the third bolt skips the crux and is closer to 5.10c. Unless you use a very specific sequence this will probably feel like a sandbag. 

Protection

Climb to the right of 4 bolts and then connect with Space Face to the anchors.

We took the time to bolt thoughtfully, all of the hard moves are very well protected. 6 bolts total. Can be toproped by climbing impartial eclipse. Be sure to leave a directional on the 2nd to last bolt to avoid a swing.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

The middle line. Start at the base of impartial eclipse and trend slightly right.
[Hide Photo] The middle line. Start at the base of impartial eclipse and trend slightly right.
In the crux sequence of this great line. Photo used with permission from Manny Lai.
[Hide Photo] In the crux sequence of this great line. Photo used with permission from Manny Lai.
Slightly off route... You can climb further right of the bolts as seen here, it's technically not the route but probably a 5.10+ and still quite slabby!
[Hide Photo] Slightly off route... You can climb further right of the bolts as seen here, it's technically not the route but probably a 5.10+ and still quite slabby!

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Dylan B
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] youtu.be/gbs1Qx7LimE
Potato recording to give idea of beta. Cannot for the life of me get the video to rotate. May 12, 2021
Joshua Thompson
Seattle, WA
 
[Hide Comment] From the above description, the crux is using the right-hand undercling to get to the ledge under the 4th bolt... that undercling has been broken off. If you're taller than 5'5", it's still doable straight up but very, very thin. I could stand up for a second but still couldn't reach the (finger) ledge. I had to go out right which, as mentioned, was very awkward. I don't know what I'd rate the climb because I wasn't able to do it proper. It's pretty hard for a short guy Aug 2, 2021
Dylan B
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Joshua, are you sure it broke off? It wasn’t a good undercling. Without a certain thumb trick you can’t activate on it.

Edit. I talked to a friend and they claim that the undercling was still there as of a day ago… Aug 2, 2021
Daniel Chode Rider
Truck, Wenatchee
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] V3 crux seems a stretch IMO. Sep 21, 2021
Dylan B
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] Lmao how tall are you? I’d say V2 but it’d be a lie for anyone under 5 8”. Sep 22, 2021
Daniel Chode Rider
Truck, Wenatchee
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] I'm 5'10, I agree it was harder for my 5'6 friend. I could clip the third standing on the good handhold and went left hand to the good ledge below the fourth, the crux for me was getting feet for that. Sep 22, 2021
Daniel Chode Rider
Truck, Wenatchee
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] Tbf tho I was farther right than you were in the video. It seemed hella contrived to stay directly on the bolt line. Sep 22, 2021
Dylan B
Seattle, WA
  5.11b
[Hide Comment] You should try to do it straight up, it’s a lot more fun ;) Sep 22, 2021
saign charlestein
Tacoma WA
 
[Hide Comment] This is a really fun climb. The rock and style feels like it's straight out of index. Followed the direct bolt line. Seemed like if you went right, you were on the climb next door. Would've given it 4 stars if the thoughtful climbing was for more than 2 bolts Jul 23, 2023
Jack Diller
Seattle, WA
  5.11a
[Hide Comment] This is a great climb. If the crux sequence was longer than two bolts it would be a total classic. If you're unsure about leading it, all the falls are very clean through the cruxes and you could easily bail and finish on impartial eclipse (shares anchor). Get on it! Apr 16, 2024