All Locations > California > Southern-Wester… > Hwy 41: Fresno… > Shuteye Ridge > Shuteye Creek Area > Gold Eagle

Getting Some Shuteye

Name: Getting Some Shuteye
Rating: 3.0

5.12a YDS 7a+ French 25 Ewbanks VIII+ UIAA 25 ZA E5 6a British

Routes in Gold Eagle

L › R R › L A › Z

	Capondraline T 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b
	Crystal Storm S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b
	Double Shot T 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b
	Getting Some Shuteye S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a
	Great Escape S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	Nailed To The Gun S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c
	South Side Of The Sky S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c
	Vapor Trails S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a

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Type:	Sport, 100 ft (30 m)
FA:	S. Jones, L. Kauk 2003
Page Views:	396 total · 11/month
Shared By:	Brian Prince on May 5, 2020
Admins:	Cory B, Mike Morley, Adam Stackhouse, Salamanizer Ski, Justin Johnsen, Vicki Schwantes Page Updates (admin only)

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Access Issue: Area may be closed May 4 - June 13, 2023 Details

The Sierra NF has issued a closure order May 4 - June 13th. This is a large area closure which covers many of the main access roads in the Sierra National forest. Closure includes parts of Beasore rd. and Minarets road. Access to several popular Western Sierra climbing areas including parts of Shuteye Ridge, the Balls, Mammoth Pools etc. will be affected. Many of these roads are buried in snow at the moment anyway.

See the link below for details on the closure and a high resolution map of the closed roads

fs.usda.gov/alerts/sierra/a…

Access Issue: Area closed until June 30th, 2023 Details

Sierra National Forest has extended a large closure covering many popular Western Sierra climbing areas including Shuteye Ridge, the Balls, Courtright Reservoir etc.
Area is closed until at least June 30th

fs.usda.gov/alerts/sierra/a…

Description

Brutal moves off the ground don't really let up until a rest after the 5th bolt or so. Then things get fun. Steep jugs lead to the left side of a roof. Potentially wild moves will get you over this and into bigger jugs to the anchor

Location

Just left of the obvious arete of South Side of the Sky. Practically the left most route off the ground on Golden Eagle before a brush filled chimney separates Golden and Electric.

Protection

12 bolts to anchor. Recommended to pre clip the first and even second bolts

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