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Hangover Arete
V9 YDS 7C Font
Avg: 3 from 2
votes
Routes in The Wasatch Resort
| Type: | Boulder, 15 ft (5 m) |
| GPS: | 40.56959, -111.76613 |
| FA: | Dave Graham |
| Page Views: | 916 total · 12/month |
| Shared By: | Sean Patrick on May 5, 2020 |
| Admins: | Drew B, Perin Blanchard, GRK, David Crane, Nathan Fisher |
Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed.
Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Read More:
saltlakeclimbers.org/climbe…
Description
The most little cottonwood of little cottonwood boulders. Strong fingers on sloping crystals characterize the stone (as well as lots of LCC kitty litter, which detracts a star). Complex, subtle movement will get you to the top.
Of note, most of the boulder is safe and pleasant, except for the last couple of moves. If you miss those, you fall down into the lower pit, and the landing is uneven down there. You'll want as many pads as you can get.
Location
Wasatch Resort, on the upcanyon, east side, before you get to Classic. Cut left past the Dean boulder when you enter WR, and work through a pleasant trail that is occasionally indistinct. After a few moments, you will run into a cluster of boulders on a hillside. Hangover is the arete in between the boulders, over a rounded boulder and a tight landing between the boulders. There is a big spiky fallen tree in the vicinity, but you don't land on it when you fall off this boulder.
Start standing, from down in the pit. Start with a sharp crimp for the left, and a right hand crimp/pinch for the right.
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