Type: Sport, 40 ft (12 m)
FA: Lee Logston, 1997
Page Views: 258 total · 22/month
Shared By: Taylor Roy on May 4, 2020
Admins: Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, DCrane

You & This Route


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Description

Besides a bit of poor rock at the start, and some painful pockets, this route offers a great power-endurance challenge with thoughtful movement, and a very challenging headwall.  Expect lots of hard climbing packed into 40 feet.

Begin up some loose rock passing a couple of very large protruding cobbles.  As the wall steepens, the cobbles fade into  sharp one and two finger pockets.  Just before you reach the headwall, crank past the crux- making very tensiony moves using horrible scoops and creative footwork to gain a good cobble.  Long moves to hidden and disappointing holds lead up and left to the shared anchor of Brine Shrimp.

Rated 12d but felt like solid 13a.  Maybe something broke?  

Be sure to stretch out your finger tendons before trying this one.

Since the anchors are not directly above the route, cleaning is a little difficult.

Location

Between Brine Shrimp and Black Fly which both sport eye bolts.  Mud Puppy has standard hangers.  Also, look for lone quickdraw hanging from the overhang.

Protection

Bolts to the Brine Shrimp anchor. Must thread rope to lower. Consider bringing some chain link to improve the anchor if you are thinking about trying this route.

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