Type: | Sport, 40 ft (12 m) |
FA: | Lee Logston, 1997 |
Page Views: | 522 total · 14/month |
Shared By: | Taylor Roy on May 4, 2020 |
Admins: | Andrew Gram, Nathan Fisher, Perin Blanchard, GRK, D C |
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Description
Besides a bit of poor rock at the start, and some painful pockets, this route offers a great power-endurance challenge with thoughtful movement, and a very challenging headwall. Expect lots of hard climbing packed into 40 feet.
Begin up some loose rock passing a couple of very large protruding cobbles. As the wall steepens, the cobbles fade into sharp one and two finger pockets. Just before you reach the headwall, crank past the crux- making very tensiony moves using horrible scoops and creative footwork to gain a good cobble. Long moves to hidden and disappointing holds lead up and left to the shared anchor of Brine Shrimp.
Rated 12d but felt like solid 13a. Maybe something broke?
Be sure to stretch out your finger tendons before trying this one.
Since the anchors are not directly above the route, cleaning is a little difficult.
Begin up some loose rock passing a couple of very large protruding cobbles. As the wall steepens, the cobbles fade into sharp one and two finger pockets. Just before you reach the headwall, crank past the crux- making very tensiony moves using horrible scoops and creative footwork to gain a good cobble. Long moves to hidden and disappointing holds lead up and left to the shared anchor of Brine Shrimp.
Rated 12d but felt like solid 13a. Maybe something broke?
Be sure to stretch out your finger tendons before trying this one.
Since the anchors are not directly above the route, cleaning is a little difficult.
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