PRINT: Rock Climb houston we have a problem, Wichita Mountains Wildlife Refuge

houston we have a problem

5.11, Trad, 50 ft (15 m),

Avg: 3 from 2 votes
FA: tony mayse, joe romero
Oklahoma > Wichita Mountai… > Charon's Gardens > Treasure Cove > Moon Rock

Access Issue: This area is designated as Charon Details

Currently the the US Fish and Wildlife Service is reviewing the Comprehensive Conservation Plan and reviewing activities for compatibility. Contact the Access Fund or the Wichita Mountains Climber's Coalition for more information on how you can get involved in keeping the tradition of climbing safe in the Wildlife Refuge. Use extra care to avoid doing anything to change the natural resources in any way.

Access Issue: Access is always an issue here. Details

Please do not litter and observe all regulations. We had to fight to regain access at one time, and we don't want to lose the privilege again. Local ethics and refuge regulations are that no bolting is permitted unless expressly authorized by the park. Leave the hammer and nails at home, no fixed gear please. Everything will go clean.

Description

HARD. No anchor

Location

We approached from the top after GE and had to take multiple tunnels and chimneys to get down to Houston. This may save you some time and headache. I guess we had fun though not efficient.

Protection

LARGE cams. I’d recommend 1 BD6, 2 blue big bros and 2 BD7s or some combination of BB and BD7/Merlin/VG. BD6 is not a safe way to complete this without the help of BBs.

Photos [Hide ALL Photos]

Lozano near crack for scale. BD6 are tippy. Bring Big Bros or BD7ish stuff.

Thanks for keeping the stoke at 12, tony

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Miles Johnson

A very direct approach to this line can be made from line of sight. Stand south of Quarantine Daze or the meadow before Elk Slabs and Post Oak Creek. Look up to the NE and you should see Houston. If you go just north of the thick brush that makes elk slabs approach so fun you should enter a slot which runs uphill and nearly due north. Follow this up the path of least resistance and you should arrive quite near Houston and the topout of Moonrock Wall. We approached from the top after GE and had to take multiple tunnels and chimneys to get down to Houston. This may save you some time and headache. I guess we had fun though not efficient.

I’d recommend 1 BD6, 2 blue big bros and 2 BD7s or some combination of BB and BD7/Merlin/VG.

BD6 is not a safe way to complete this without the help of BBs. Jan 22, 2021

Miles Johnson

CW Beta: John Lozano Jan 22, 2021 youtu.be/er1Fij5IQbE Jan 24, 2021