To save paper & ink, use the [Hide] controls next to photos and comments
so you only print what you need.
The Big Kahuna
5.11+ PG13,
Sport, 60 ft (18 m),
Avg: 2 from 1
vote
FA: Eric Kozera, Chris Guenther
Montana
> Southwest Region
> Paradise Valley
> Allenspur
> Main Crag
Access Issue: Allenspur Approach
Details
June 2019 Update: Per the SMCC: We contacted the landowners who posted “No Trespassing” signs at the entrance to the northern access at Allenspur (where there is an easement, held by SMCC since 2005). The landowners will amend the signs to recognize that access to BLM lands is allowed through the easement. Please do your part and respect the landowners property - the easement is to access BLM lands, NOT the river. Also, the landowners have noted, and are concerned, that people are building campfires in Crystal Cave. It is dry and windy at Allenspur and an escaped campfire would be nothing but trouble. Please do not build fires, and if you see campfire rings, please make sure the fire is out cold and then scatter the rocks to discourage future fires.
May 2019 Update: “No Trespassing” signs have recently been posted at the entrance to the northern access at Allenspur. To clarify, the easement that controls that access (held by SMCC since 2005) is still in place. The signs are discouraging climbers and hikers from their rightful use of the trail that accesses public BLM land.
Another access exists to the south. It is controlled by a different landowner that allows us the privilege of crossing their land. They have requested that people not bring dogs across their property. If you have been bringing your dog through that property, please stop. Right now, it is imperative that we respect the lawful requests of landowners.
Description
This is a linkup that starts above Wave Hog and joins up with Sully’s second pitch. Instead of the slab intro on Sullys, you get an exposed, committing, and pumpy start directly into the undercling crux.
From the ledge, traverse right along a jug rail way out in space for two bolts (slings), then continue straight up, joining up with the finger crack underclings of Sully's second pitch to the top of the wall. Lots of air and spacey bolts. Not a top rope: belay up second from chain anchor.
Location
First bolt is directly above Wave Hog anchor and heads right along the lip of the giant roof. Belay from ledge (belay bolt). Rappel from Point Break anchors or walk off climbers' right.
Protection
8 bolts, chain anchor.
[Hide Photo] Topo for Sully's Route. 2 Bolt anchor at the top. You can continue on to the upper climbs from this anchor set.