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Routes in Main Crag
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Beach Ball S 5.12d 7c 28 IX 28 E6 6b |
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Beach Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Bee Yourself S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Big Kahuna, The S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a PG13 |
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Blood and Bolts S 5.9- 5c 17 VI 16 HVS 4c |
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Climbing Club Route S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c |
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Cold Feet S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Crawlin' Thru Time S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Detached Retina S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Double Vision S 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b |
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Down with the Shine S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Eddie K S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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February Crack S 5.7+ 5a 15 V+ 13 MVS 4b |
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First Light S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Fresh Outta F**** S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hangry Hornet S 5.12a 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Hannukah Valentine S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Happy Boschday S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Harvester S 5.10d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Hermes Horror Show S 5.10c/d 6b+ 21 VII+ 21 E3 5b |
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Jazz Cabagge S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Keep It Under 100 S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Killer Beez S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Look Ma, No Hands S 5.8 5b 16 VI- 15 HVS 4c PG13 |
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Mast, The S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Money Can't Buy Knives S 5.11+ 7a 24 VIII 24 E4 6a |
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One for Carl S 5.9 5c 17 VI 17 HVS 5a |
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Paradise S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Poacher's Pinch S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Point Break S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Prow, The S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Pull It Over S 5.10c 6b 20 VII 20 E2 5b |
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Shady Business S 5.11a 6c 22 VII+ 22 E3 5c |
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Shady Silence S 5.12 7b+ 27 VIII+ 26 E6 6b |
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Sleepy Hollow S 5.10+ 6b+ 21 VII+ 20 E3 5b |
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Sully's Route S 5.10a 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Sunday Driver S 5.10b 6a+ 19 VII- 19 E2 5b |
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Three Little Birds S 5.11b 6c 23 VIII- 23 E3 5c |
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Todos Santos S 5.9+ 5c 17 VI 17 E1 5a |
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Unknown S 5.13 8a 29 X- 30 E7 6c |
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Unknown S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b |
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Valley of Plenty S 5.12- 7a+ 25 VIII+ 25 E5 6a |
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Wave Hog S 5.10- 6a 18 VI+ 18 E1 5a |
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Yellowjacket S 5.11d 7a 24 VIII 25 E5 6a |
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Zombeez S 5.12c 7b+ 27 IX- 27 E6 6b |
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| Type: | Sport, 60 ft (18 m) |
| FA: | Eric Kozera, Chris Guenther |
| Page Views: | 396 total · 11/month |
| Shared By: | Eric Kozera on May 1, 2020 |
| Admins: | GRK, Zach Wahrer |
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Access Issue: Allenspur Approach
Details
June 2019 Update: Per the SMCC: We contacted the landowners who posted “No Trespassing” signs at the entrance to the northern access at Allenspur (where there is an easement, held by SMCC since 2005). The landowners will amend the signs to recognize that access to BLM lands is allowed through the easement. Please do your part and respect the landowners property - the easement is to access BLM lands, NOT the river. Also, the landowners have noted, and are concerned, that people are building campfires in Crystal Cave. It is dry and windy at Allenspur and an escaped campfire would be nothing but trouble. Please do not build fires, and if you see campfire rings, please make sure the fire is out cold and then scatter the rocks to discourage future fires.
May 2019 Update: “No Trespassing” signs have recently been posted at the entrance to the northern access at Allenspur. To clarify, the easement that controls that access (held by SMCC since 2005) is still in place. The signs are discouraging climbers and hikers from their rightful use of the trail that accesses public BLM land.
Another access exists to the south. It is controlled by a different landowner that allows us the privilege of crossing their land. They have requested that people not bring dogs across their property. If you have been bringing your dog through that property, please stop. Right now, it is imperative that we respect the lawful requests of landowners.
May 2019 Update: “No Trespassing” signs have recently been posted at the entrance to the northern access at Allenspur. To clarify, the easement that controls that access (held by SMCC since 2005) is still in place. The signs are discouraging climbers and hikers from their rightful use of the trail that accesses public BLM land.
Another access exists to the south. It is controlled by a different landowner that allows us the privilege of crossing their land. They have requested that people not bring dogs across their property. If you have been bringing your dog through that property, please stop. Right now, it is imperative that we respect the lawful requests of landowners.
Description
This is a linkup that starts above Wave Hog and joins up with Sully’s second pitch. Instead of the slab intro on Sullys, you get an exposed, committing, and pumpy start directly into the undercling crux.
From the ledge, traverse right along a jug rail way out in space for two bolts (slings), then continue straight up, joining up with the finger crack underclings of Sully's second pitch to the top of the wall. Lots of air and spacey bolts. Not a top rope: belay up second from chain anchor.
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