Type: TR, 30 ft (9 m)
FA: Ken Hull
Page Views: 297 total · 18/month
Shared By: Ken Hull on Apr 30, 2020
Admins: SCPC, SWPACC, EPAC, Justin Johnsen

You & This Route


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Access Issue: CLIMBING AT DONATION REQUIRES A SIGNED ONLINE WAIVER Details

Description

I can’t believe this sweet little buttress hasn’t been a Donation classic for a long time. Yeah it’s short but it’s so much fun! In my quest to develop more routes here, therefore spreading out the load on the existing classics, I set out to bring this one online. I chose that name because the whole thing including the top was literally covered in that flaky green/brown lichen - which btw becomes like little flakes of slime when wet!

The bottom as well as the main spire has optional approaches and routes. At the bottom, the beginner can take the “staircase” (to the right) to the main climb. Intermediate climbers can tackle the lower part straight on. It’s currently covered in moss so please remove it if I don’t get to it soon. The spire is loaded with good hands and feet. The arête is the easiest path (5.7) and as you move right it becomes harder but not too hard. Again, good hands and feet but they become smaller and less positive as you move right from the arête.

This climb is for the beginner to intermediate. And I feel advanced climbers will enjoy it too - a classic 5.FUN!

Location

This smaller buttress is just right of True Grit. To get to the anchors, hike up the main switchback to your right. Just about at the top, look for a trail lined with branches to the left. Follow that back and over a small rise. Go left down between two rocks to the skinny buttress top. Anchors are placed so that double length slings are perfect to get your carabiners over the edge without drag on the rope.

Protection

Top rope anchors are stainless steel bolts hangers. There is a safety tie-in anchor in the rock behind that services this climb as well as True Grit. (see photo).

Photos

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