V7,
Boulder, 15 ft (5 m),
Avg: 3.3 from 4
votes
FA: Mike Beck
Utah
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Access Issue: Gate Buttress Area Recreational Lease: Climbs on Church Buttress above vault remain closed
Details
Climbers Partner with LDS Church on Stewardship of Little Cottonwood Canyon Climbing
June 1st, 2017:The Salt Lake Climbers Alliance (SLCA), the Church of Jesus Christ of Latter-day Saints (LDS Church), and Access Fund announce the signing of an unprecedented lease for 140 acres in Little Cottonwood Canyon (LCC). The parcel, known as the Gate Buttress, is about one mile up LCC canyon and has been popular with generations of climbers because of its world-class granite.
The agreement secures legitimate access to approximately 588 routes and 138 boulder problems at the Gate Buttress for rock climbers, who will be active stewards of the property. The recreational lease is the result of several years of negotiations between LDS Church leaders and the local climbing community.
Access Note: The climbs on the Church Buttress above the vault as well as the Glen boulders that have been traditionally closed will remain closed. Please help us steward this area and leave no trace.
Nice crimpers in solid rock, but the starting position is in-obvious, and this detracts. If you start matched on the down pulling crimp up on the right, the movement is best. It is possible to go lower on increasingly gnar edges, but it doesn't make it any more fun.
Location
Uphill from the Classic. Look for a clean, flat face with crimps. Finish with a rad deadpoint to a finger bucket in the middle of the big face, and top out on sloping holds at 15 feet or so. Make sure to go up and clean the top holds off in advance.