All Locations >
Colorado
> Lyons
> St Vrain Canyons
> N Fork of the S…
> Longmont Reserv…
> Old Yellar Dome
The Scoundrel
5.13b YDS 8a French 29 Ewbanks IX+ UIAA 30 ZA E7 6c British
Type: | Sport, 70 ft (21 m) |
FA: | Michael Hauck Jan 2020 |
Page Views: | 593 total · 16/month |
Shared By: | Michael Hauck on Apr 21, 2020 |
Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC |
Your To-Do List:
Add To-Do ·
Description
This is the route to the right of Old Yellar. It was originally bolted by the legendary Steve Hong and Pat Adams, much thanks!
The route is broken into 3 parts by 2 no hands rests. Once past the hollow and kinda chossy entry climbing, you get to a very techy, 12+ dihedral (I extended the 3rd draw to make it safer to clip). Once past the dihedral, you get to a ledge big enough you can walk around on, have a party, take a nap, etc. From here, you have a steep, undercling traverse on good holds eventually pulling a tricky bulge onto a hanging slab and another no hands rest. Finally you have reached the crux, probably a V6 on its own. Very sequential and perplexing, this took me some good sussing to actually figure out a method through the last 2 bolts. The route finishes with a jump to the finish jug on Old Yellar, what a stellar last move! It shares an anchor with Old Yellar and is a pain to clean while lowering. I would TR back up through the draws.
Overall, the route has subpar rock quality and is broken up by 2 no hands rests, but if you have already done Old Yellar, this is definitely worth getting on. It is very different.
The route is broken into 3 parts by 2 no hands rests. Once past the hollow and kinda chossy entry climbing, you get to a very techy, 12+ dihedral (I extended the 3rd draw to make it safer to clip). Once past the dihedral, you get to a ledge big enough you can walk around on, have a party, take a nap, etc. From here, you have a steep, undercling traverse on good holds eventually pulling a tricky bulge onto a hanging slab and another no hands rest. Finally you have reached the crux, probably a V6 on its own. Very sequential and perplexing, this took me some good sussing to actually figure out a method through the last 2 bolts. The route finishes with a jump to the finish jug on Old Yellar, what a stellar last move! It shares an anchor with Old Yellar and is a pain to clean while lowering. I would TR back up through the draws.
Overall, the route has subpar rock quality and is broken up by 2 no hands rests, but if you have already done Old Yellar, this is definitely worth getting on. It is very different.
0 Comments