Type: Sport, 70 ft (21 m)
FA: Michael Hauck Jan 2020
Page Views: 335 total · 26/month
Shared By: Michael Hauck on Apr 21, 2020
Admins: Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

You & This Route


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Access Issue: No longer closed! Details

Description

This is the route to the right of Old Yellar. It was originally bolted by the legendary Steve Hong and Pat Adams, much thanks!

The route is broken into 3 parts by 2 no hands rests. Once past the hollow and kinda chossy entry climbing, you get to a very techy, 12+ dihedral (I extended the 3rd draw to make it safer to clip). Once past the dihedral, you get to a ledge big enough you can walk around on, have a party, take a nap, etc. From here, you have a steep, undercling traverse on good holds eventually pulling a tricky bulge onto a hanging slab and another no hands rest. Finally you have reached the crux, probably a V6 on its own. Very sequential and perplexing, this took me some good sussing to actually figure out a method through the last 2 bolts. The route finishes with a jump to the finish jug on Old Yellar, what a stellar last move! It shares an anchor with Old Yellar and is a pain to clean while lowering. I would TR back up through the draws.

Overall, the route has subpar rock quality and is broken up by 2 no hands rests, but if you have already done Old Yellar, this is definitely worth getting on. It is very different.

Location

Start 10 feet to the right of Old Yellar.

Protection

Bolts with a sport anchor (shared with Old Yellar).

Photos

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