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Black Fly

5.13, Sport, 70 ft (21 m),  Avg: 4 from 2 votes
FA: Scott Cosgrove
California > Yosemite NP > Yosemite Valley > Valley S Side > K. Public Sani… > Lower Tier
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Description

Black Fly is a Valley classic that sees little traffic. Likely because of the difficulty and the lack of information about the route. Black Fly shares the initial boulder problem of Final Cut then splits left, climbing intermittent finger cracks and seams. More or less mid 5.12 climbing up the first half of the route, to a difficult and technical boulder problem. The crux revolves around pulling the elevator door apart on marginal gaston crimps. Very precise, tension dependent foot movements. This route has to be one of the best sport climbs in the Valley.

Location

The left most line on the lower tier of the Public Sanitation wall.  Begins off a small ledge 30 feet up. Requires an approach pitch at 5.9.

Protection

Bolts, 8 or 9. The bolting on the bottom is a little sparse, it is helpful to extend the bolt above the initial boulder so you clip before doing the heel hook mantle move.

Comments [Hide ALL Comments]

Nick Sullens
Yosemite
  5.13
[Hide Comment] Given 13b in the Reid Guidebook and put up by the legendary sandbagger Scott Cosgrove, take the rating with a grain of salt. It felt impossible for me for a very long time. Can be helpful to put draws on the route from Final Cut, especially at the bottom, the bolting is kind of sparse. Apr 14, 2020
Joe Hedge
Burbank, CA
[Hide Comment] I took Stefan Glowacz here early 90's and he couldn't touch it, he rapped off by threading the rope through a bolt hanger (!). I belayed Coz on the FA and he was doing shit with his feet I didn't understand Jun 8, 2021