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Black Fly
5.13,
Sport, 70 ft (21 m),
Avg: 4 from 2
votes
FA: Scott Cosgrove
California
> Yosemite NP
> Yosemite Valley
> Valley S Side
> K. Public Sani…
> Lower Tier
Access Issue: Latest updates on closures, permits, and regulations.
Details
Please visit
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the latest information on visiting Yosemite, including permits, regulations, and closure information.
Yosemite National Park has yearly closures for Peregrine Falcon Protection March 1- July 15. Always check the NPS website at
nps.gov/yose/planyourvisit/… for the most current details and park alerts, and to learn more about the peregrine falcon, and how closures help it survive. This page also shares closures and warnings due to current fires, smoke, etc.
Description
Black Fly is a Valley classic that sees little traffic. Likely because of the difficulty and the lack of information about the route. Black Fly shares the initial boulder problem of Final Cut then splits left, climbing intermittent finger cracks and seams. More or less mid 5.12 climbing up the first half of the route, to a difficult and technical boulder problem. The crux revolves around pulling the elevator door apart on marginal gaston crimps. Very precise, tension dependent foot movements. This route has to be one of the best sport climbs in the Valley.
Location
The left most line on the lower tier of the Public Sanitation wall. Begins off a small ledge 30 feet up. Requires an approach pitch at 5.9.
Protection
Bolts, 8 or 9. The bolting on the bottom is a little sparse, it is helpful to extend the bolt above the initial boulder so you clip before doing the heel hook mantle move.
Yosemite
Burbank, CA