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Routes in The Bunker
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5.7+ Crack Problem V-easy 3 |
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Asha V4 6B |
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Hugs and Kisses from Salt Lake City S 5.11c 6c+ 24 VIII- 24 E4 6a |
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Rodeo Clown T 5.11 6c+ 23 VIII- 23 E4 5c |
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Spirits Rebellious T 5.12b 7b 26 VIII+ 26 E5 6b V6+ 7A |
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Trojan V2 5+ |
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Tugging Softly S 5.12+ 7c 28 IX 27 E6 6b V7 7A+ |
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V1 Slab V1 5 |
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| Type: | Trad, 45 ft (14 m) |
| FA: | Davin Bagdonas |
| Page Views: | 638 total · 13/month |
| Shared By: | Billy K on Apr 13, 2020 |
| Admins: | Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Aeon Aki, Mike Snyder, Taylor Spiegelberg, Jake Dickerson |
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Description
Rodeo Clown has sweet, techy face climbing while protecting in horizontals. way off the beaten path.
Original line: start off the pedestal on the middle of the face, just to the right of the black water streak. Climb up and slightly left until about mid-height, step left, and then go up and slightly left until the last bulge where you step right. If this sounds confusing, just follow the past of least resistance. Any other line up would be beyond 5.11.
Variation: naively thinking this was a new route, I started from the left side of the wall, climbed up and right until I encountered a sweet cobble mantel. After on top of the cobble, you have joined the original route.
Either way you do it, it's 5.11 face.
Original line: start off the pedestal on the middle of the face, just to the right of the black water streak. Climb up and slightly left until about mid-height, step left, and then go up and slightly left until the last bulge where you step right. If this sounds confusing, just follow the past of least resistance. Any other line up would be beyond 5.11.
Variation: naively thinking this was a new route, I started from the left side of the wall, climbed up and right until I encountered a sweet cobble mantel. After on top of the cobble, you have joined the original route.
Either way you do it, it's 5.11 face.
Location
This climb is located on the large, low angle, and broken dome just past the main Bunker area. Once you hit the Bunker, drive around it to left, and follow the road until it dead ends up on a big flat rocky area with a campfire. Walk straight toward the dome, staying at the same elevation as the parking. Tucked in a grassy alcove, you will find the wall. It sits below most of the other formations on the dome. It is on the West side of the formation and faces Northwest. It takes approximately a 5 minute approach from the parking.
Protection
Mainly small stuff, all placed in the obvious horizontals. The horizontal cracks were a bit dirty, so bring a nut tool.
You can get a gear anchor up top. You can easily walk around to the large ledge and toprope the climb. If you do this, bring some material to extend the anchor approximately 15 feet or so.
You can get a gear anchor up top. You can easily walk around to the large ledge and toprope the climb. If you do this, bring some material to extend the anchor approximately 15 feet or so.
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