Type: Trad, 2 pitches
FA: Josh Bourne, Cameron Bourne
Page Views: 666 total · 14/month
Shared By: Josh Bourne on Apr 11, 2020
Admins: Jesse Zacher, Bradley Mark Edwards, Nick Reecy, Leo Paik, John McNamee, Frances Fierst, Monty, Monomaniac, Tyler KC

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Description Suggest change

This ascends the pinnacle of Rabbit Valley. Start on the south side of the tower straight into splitterville.

P1. Climb hands till you hit a small pod where things widen up to fist for awhile. Gain a small ledge using the crack and some face features. Save a #4 or #5 for top section, and grunt your way to a nice big ledge, 5.10+.  (There are a couple belay options. I wrapped my rope around the step up on the ledge.)

P2. Meet up with Elmer Fudd's 1000 Yard Stare. Place some small gear in some soft rock (Ball nuts seemed perfect). Make two body lengths of spicy movement off the deck using face holds. Gain the crack, and climb on some bad but easy climbing to the top, 5.10.

Rap. Use the blob up top, and sling yourself off the backside.

Location Suggest change

Approach the same as Elmer Fudd's 1000 Yard Stare. From entering Rabbit Valley, there is a slick rock mesa with 4 or small mini-towerheads poking up. This tower is behind the heads near the backside of the formation. You can park at McDonald Creek parking area and hike downstream until the pour off. Head up the canyon on your left, and you'll bump right into it. It is maybe 45 minutes from the car? There are magnificent views of the river and the desolate wilderness from the top.

Protection Suggest change

Doubles 0.3-3, 3 4s, 1 #5, ball nuts or some small to medium nuts, a handful of slings, and a 70m rope.

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