The Generator

Two pitch climb, 2nd pitch is the crux pitch, which I think should be avoided.

P1: 5.9+ (3 stars from me!): The crux comes low down pulling the roof perhaps 3 m off the deck (bolt protected), with a second crux coming up high just below the anchors (go right, left is possible but more difficult). Enjoyable climbing!

P2: 5.10c (avoid, dirty rock, loose blocks): Climb easy terrain (4th and low 5th) on lichen covered rock (some of it is loose!) passing a few bolts until the base of the real climbing. You'll find yourself at the base of a vertical face with a series of mini-roofs, which pinches into a right facing, off vertical messy corner. Keep the bolt line (3 bolts on this steep section) over your left shoulder as you start, pull out of the corner onto the face, clip your second and third bolts, pull up under the top, larger roof and then take the airy traverse over top of your last bolt to the left before finally pulling up through the weakness in the roof to the chains. Mind the loose rock (I trundled out a cinder block sized piece after my belayer was clear), and the tick covered bush just down/left of the anchors.

Do not link the pitches, the rope drag is horrendous and the belay at the top of P1 is comfortable. Long draw your first four bolts on P2. You cannot walk off of this one, and I would not advise belaying from the top of P2, it would be a nightmare of a hanging belay. Both pitches are less than 30 m. Wear your helmet for the P2 belay!

Look for the bolt on the roof down low, this is your line!

P1: 9 bolts, 2 bolt anchor. P2: 6 bolts, 2 bolt anchor.