Type: Sport, 82 ft (25 m)
FA: Mike Doyle '97
Page Views: 168 total · 12/month
Shared By: Rhys Beaudry on Apr 9, 2020
Admins: Sean Godwin, Mandie Walls, Mark Roberts, Mauricio Herrera Cuadra, Kate Lynn, Braden Batsford

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Description

This rig is rad- a boulder crux down low (bolts 3-4) with two options, and a redpoint crux turning the lip of the big roof up top!

Climb easy terrain to a ledge where you stand and clip bolt 3, from here your objective is to gain a hand rail from which you can clip bolt 4. If you pass bolt 3 on the left you have chosen crimp and sloper at ~5.11+, if you pass bolt 3 on the right, you have chosen wisely (~5.11b: launch from a decent rail to a bucket and hand traverse carefully back left). After bolt four there is one more slightly cryptic move before climbing several feet of easy terrain to gain a no hands rest under the roof. Rest up and turn the roof on good holds, but, pray that someone has ticked the "Thank-God" hold well up and to the right of the final bolt. If you're going ground up, probably easiest to clip the last bolt when it's at your thigh (safe fall), if the draw is already there, you can easily clip it before turning the roof.

Long-draw your last 3 bolts (below the roof, on the roof and above the roof).

Location

Look for the biggest roof on the wall with a distinctive "nose" block under the roof. 

Protection

8 bolts (?), 2 bolt anchor with biners

Photos

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